Ducati Panigale Bayliss 1st Championship 20th Anniversary - Project Build

KODAKHODAK

Well-known member
Finally installed the RCS19 Corsa Corta Brake Pump & Rizoma Ducati Brake Reservoir, only one minor obstacle was the rear brake light switch, had to cut and join to the original harness plug that came with the Bayliss… other than that relatively easy to do. Took it for a decent ride and brake feels solid 🤟 Next is track day at SMP in coming weeks 🟩⬜🟥
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BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
Finally installed the RCS19 Corsa Corta Brake Pump & Rizoma Ducati Brake Reservoir, only one minor obstacle was the rear brake light switch, had to cut and join to the original harness plug that came with the Bayliss… other than that relatively easy to do. Took it for a decent ride and brake feels solid 🤟 Next is track day at SMP in coming weeks 🟩⬜🟥
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Hi Kodakhodak, that is beautiful setup right there :love:
By the way, it might be a bit too late now, but you can take out (pry out) the original brake switch from your original Ducati front brake master cylinder and it should fit to the RCS master cylinder (you have to take out the switch that came with the RCS first of course).
That is what I did with mine.
 

KODAKHODAK

Well-known member
Hi Kodakhodak, that is beautiful setup right there :love:
By the way, it might be a bit too late now, but you can take out (pry out) the original brake switch from your original Ducati front brake master cylinder and it should fit to the RCS master cylinder (you have to take out the switch that came with the RCS first of course).
That is what I did with mine.
Unfortunately the switch are different mounting I tried but the actual mechanism block on the V2 is smaller and the RCS19 had bigger pins holes - I thought it would fit but it didn’t 🥲 - nevertheless I just rejoined the wiring was simple 👌
 

KODAKHODAK

Well-known member
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Great day at Sydney Motorsport Park for my first experience on the Bayliss and the Circuit, not my first track day but new to this combination. The Bayliss had a few minor issues with down shifting but this was resolved later in the day once i spoke to a few guys including @Andy7 - Cheers for saying hello and for the tips. Few happy snaps from the local photographer at the track. Keen to get back with more confidence!
 

KODAKHODAK

Well-known member
Question All, what other alternatives for quick shifters for the V2? I took the V2 on the street and encountered another jammed down shift from top of 6 gear. I have ordered the Racetorx Gear Shift Support, still feel it won’t resolve everything just curious to see if the stock quickshift unit is lacking performance?
 

BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
I purchased Cordona unit because @HKMP7 recommended it and he had good experience with it for my V4.
Here is the link for Cordona unit for V2: Item 420Evo-Spec-V2 - Ducati Panigale V2 Quickshifter - Blipper | Cordona Precision Technology
If you want to buy Cordona, you can buy direct from the US/Canadian importer, and I can PM his information to you if you want me to.

However, I just noticed Domino also made one for V2 and here is the link: Kit Quick Shifter for Ducati Panigale V2 97.4087.13-00 | Domino Srl & Tommaselli
 

PanigalePilot

FOUNDING Member & Moderator
Staff member
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Great day at Sydney Motorsport Park for my first experience on the Bayliss and the Circuit, not my first track day but new to this combination. The Bayliss had a few minor issues with down shifting but this was resolved later in the day once i spoke to a few guys including @Andy7 - Cheers for saying hello and for the tips. Few happy snaps from the local photographer at the track. Keen to get back with more confidence!
Nice photos. Cool to have some good shots. Bike looks clean too. (y)
 

KODAKHODAK

Well-known member
I purchased Cordona unit because @HKMP7 recommended it and he had good experience with it for my V4.
Here is the link for Cordona unit for V2: Item 420Evo-Spec-V2 - Ducati Panigale V2 Quickshifter - Blipper | Cordona Precision Technology
If you want to buy Cordona, you can buy direct from the US/Canadian importer, and I can PM his information to you if you want me to.

However, I just noticed Domino also made one for V2 and here is the link: Kit Quick Shifter for Ducati Panigale V2 97.4087.13-00 | Domino Srl & Tommaselli
cheers for the links going to give the Racetorx unit a go and get my service team where I work check for any errors on the quick shifter unit, if it keeps failing might need a new one from ducati under warranty
 

KODAKHODAK

Well-known member
Today I took the Panigale to work and got my service team to reset the quick shifter via the ducati diagnostic computer, didn’t show any errors, went for a ride and recalibrated the shifter seems fine for now can only tell when I go back to the track to see if it errors out again!
 

bp_SFV4

Active member
Domino is the OEM for the factory quickshifter, so I wouldn’t replace it with that one if you can get one for free under warranty. When I had problems with my QS not downshifting, I tried quite a few things. In the end, I reset the wheel calibration to default then performed a new one. It’s been flawless since.
 

KODAKHODAK

Well-known member
So this morning went for a stress test on the quick shifter to see if the gremlins are still there, unfortunately it happens under load to get up to 6th then locks up and won’t left me move the shifter lever to downshift, the gear selected feels like it’s solid and only way to go down gears is via using the clutch lever in the bars, we have reset it and still hasn’t resolved it. The Racetorx support hasn’t arrived yet so I’ll try the same stress test when it arrives this week I hope, here is a video of what happens after Stress Test Video Quick Shifter
 

KODAKHODAK

Well-known member
Question does it matter that I have changed the wheel and tyre size and gearing on the bike? Have reset everything and calibrated wheels and the quick shifter and still has this issue, possible faulty quickshift sensor as the blip down under this stress won’t allow it to downshift - help a bro out it’s becoming a but frustrating now and gives we No confidence to ride if I am in the hills/canyons
 

bp_SFV4

Active member
My bike was doing the exact same thing. Sometimes it would work, but mostly it would not. Upshift always worked fine.

You can always manually blip the throttle to get it to downshift. I did that all the time on my 1199 since the QS was up only. Not a long term solution.

You can ask your dealer to perform the DQS test, which will show them if the QS is working, you can also with the dealer tool or an OBDStar iScan you can see the voltages the QS is putting out. The three wires are +5v input, ground and signal direct to the ECU. At idle, the signal wire will read +2.5v. For an upshift, +3.8V and for a downshift +1.8V. When I checked with the iScan, I could see the ECU was reading the correct voltages. Only setting the tire calibration to default fixed it.

Go into the menu for tire calibration and set it to default. Try using it on default without performing a new tire calibration.
 

KODAKHODAK

Well-known member
My bike was doing the exact same thing. Sometimes it would work, but mostly it would not. Upshift always worked fine.

You can always manually blip the throttle to get it to downshift. I did that all the time on my 1199 since the QS was up only. Not a long term solution.

You can ask your dealer to perform the DQS test, which will show them if the QS is working, you can also with the dealer tool or an OBDStar iScan you can see the voltages the QS is putting out. The three wires are +5v input, ground and signal direct to the ECU. At idle, the signal wire will read +2.5v. For an upshift, +3.8V and for a downshift +1.8V. When I checked with the iScan, I could see the ECU was reading the correct voltages. Only setting the tire calibration to default fixed it.

Go into the menu for tire calibration and set it to default. Try using it on default without performing a new tire calibration.
ill try a few things this week as I’d like to see if the Racetorx helps will set the tyre calibration on default and do another stress test if that fails then it has to be a shity QS
 

bp_SFV4

Active member
Ahhh. That was a common mod with the V2 platform back to the 1199. That's definaetly cheaper than the billet covers made to do the same thing.

But, I don't think that's going to help your problem, since your problem is with the electronics.
 
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