Ducati 998s FE Final Edition (REPLICA but MODIFIED FAR BEYOND the Original) Build Thread

[BMW Alpina]

Great attention to detail.

Thanks so much for the kind words @Shanner22

I bought some collections of Stainless Steel FENDER Washers and O-Rings for... well custom fit the Motocorse Titanium Frame Bolt Cap


But why?
Well, Motocorse Japan made a 3 pieces kit of Titanium Frame Bolt Caps for the Ducati 998. However, they did not make the 2 pieces for the swing arm axle bolt, so they look unfinished.
I decided to purchase the Motocorse Japan Titanium Frame Bolt cap kit for the 1199 Panigale, and use the 2 larger Frame Cap but of course, they would not fit flush, meaning they would poke out... which is unacceptable...


2 pictures below show they came from Motocorse Japan:



And the left picture below shows all the washers, oring, and serrated nut that I stack, and the right picture show how they are stacked together. As you can see they are now "thinner overall"



VOILA:


And now all the frame bolt are CAPS with Motocorse Titanium Frame Bolt Caps


Next just add some ProTi bolts to the unused threaded holes of the Ohlins shocks:



Also replace the 2 bolts holding the bearing behind the water pump impeller with ProTi Titanium bolts:


Replace the black plastic air stem valve with AELLA Titanium:





and of course more ProTi for the Motocorse Ohlins Steering Damper bracket:




I am now waiting for 2 Custom Machined TITANIUM Steering Lock mechanisms and Steering Damper Mounting Spacer, no that is not a typo, it will be a TITANIUM chunk of nicely machined metal coming soon
Once these 2 TITANIUM parts arrived then I can install the Ohlins Steering Damper with this Motocorse Bracket.

 

[BMW Alpina]

Last year, I was initially planning to put Pirelli DIABLO ROSSO CORSA 4 for this 998 build. However, this tire somehow took too long (more than 6 months since available for purchase in Europe) before it was available for sale in the US.
It was the 30-year yellow marking that made me one to buy this tire. But by the time it is available from any US reseller, they no longer offered this 30-year yellow marking, so I lost interest,
This availability delay is also a blessing in disguise because Pirelli then announced they would have an even better DIABLO SUPERCORSA SP V4.

But I learned my lesson because it will take forever if I wait until they are available through US resellers. I can't even see it on the US Pirelli website yet.
The good news is that it is already available through some UK and Italian Reseller
So, I just placed an order for a set of Pirelli's latest DIABLO SUPERCORSA SP V4 for this 998 build from the UK reseller.

Hopefully arrive in the next 10 days or so.

 

[PanigalePilot]

Thanks so much for the kind words @Shanner22

I bought some collections of Stainless Steel FENDER Washers and O-Rings for... well custom fit the Motocorse Titanium Frame Bolt Cap
View attachment 11257

But why?
Well, Motocorse Japan made a 3 pieces kit of Titanium Frame Bolt Caps for the Ducati 998. However, they did not make the 2 pieces for the swing arm axle bolt, so they look unfinished.
I decided to purchase the Motocorse Japan Titanium Frame Bolt cap kit for the 1199 Panigale, and use the 2 larger Frame Cap but of course, they would not fit flush, meaning they would poke out... which is unacceptable...


2 pictures below show they came from Motocorse Japan:
View attachment 11258View attachment 11259


And the left picture below shows all the washers, oring, and serrated nut that I stack, and the right picture show how they are stacked together. As you can see they are now "thinner overall"
View attachment 11261View attachment 11260


VOILA:
View attachment 11262

And now all the frame bolt are CAPS with Motocorse Titanium Frame Bolt Caps
View attachment 11264

Next just add some ProTi bolts to the unused threaded holes of the Ohlins shocks:
View attachment 11265View attachment 11266
View attachment 11267View attachment 11276

Also replace the 2 bolts holding the bearing behind the water pump impeller with ProTi Titanium bolts:
View attachment 11268

Replace the black plastic air stem valve with AELLA Titanium:
View attachment 11269View attachment 11272


View attachment 11270View attachment 11271

and of course more ProTi for the Motocorse Ohlins Steering Damper bracket:
View attachment 11277View attachment 11278

View attachment 11279

I am now waiting for 2 Custom Machined TITANIUM Steering Lock mechanisms and Steering Damper Mounting Spacer, no that is not a typo, it will be a TITANIUM chunk of nicely machined metal coming soon
Once these 2 TITANIUM parts arrived then I can install the Ohlins Steering Damper with this Motocorse Bracket.

Cannot wait to see the custom machined Ti parts. It is always cool when you have a piece on your bike that no one else has especially if you designed and machined it yourself.

 

[BMW Alpina]

Cannot wait to see the custom machined Ti parts. It is always cool when you have a piece on your bike that no one else has especially if you designed and machined it yourself.

Thanks so much @PanigalePilot

By the way, this weekend was LED Lighting time, well, at least Phase 1 :

First, I test which terminals is for the Red Rear Light and which is for the Red Rear BRAKE Light (the brighter is the BRAKE light):


Then I marked it with the Red Sharpie:


So I know the right orientation and install it into the rear brake light housing. First I compare the conventional bulb and the LED bulb both BRAKE and non brake mode:


Then test again with BOTH replaced to LED:


This is how it looks from outside brake and non brake mode:


Next move to the Blue LED for High Beam Indicator:


Then Green LED for both Neutral and Turnsignal Indicator:


Finally Low Fuel and Check Engine LED:


Next Backlighting LED for both speedometer and tachometer:




For the Tachometer, the same cable also powered the backlighting of the temperature gauge, of course had been replace by LED bulbs too:

Continue below

 

[BMW Alpina]

Now time for Small Light on the front headlight, and I compare it between LED bulb with the old conventional filament bulb (yellowish):


Please note again those are just Small Light, it's not even the low beam and of course not high beam yet. They are from IPF Japan.


Next the Low Beam H1 LED Bulb also from IPF Japan:



Took out the original filament bulb and replace with IPF LED:


Yes they are much brighter :


Next install the H3 from VLEDS (IPF did not produce H3 LED bulb yet so I use VLEDS) and eventhough I only need 1 bulb, but they were sold in pairs so got to buy pairs.


Installing them:


At the same time removing the original high beam wiring from the original rubber cap (got to slice the shrink wrap):


Turn them on (they have cooling fan):



Now test again, Low Beam only through the reflector low beam:


Both high beam and low beam... wow, this LED really make it look much more modern aka State of The Art :


I am also waiting for an after market Rubber Cap / Dust Seal because the original Ducati are not the right fit for both this new LED bulbs.
So I am not really done until sometimes 2 weeks from now.... thus it will be Phase 2

I also reverse this ground terminal so it won't accidentally poke the LED IPF low beam cable:



I then install the BRAND NEW wiring on the rear subframe with all original Ducati Rubber Band of course:




continue below:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Then install the RED anodized painted holding bracket for the front subframe wiring with ProTi Titanium Bolt:

 

[HKMP7]

No stone left unturned!!!
Excellent job.

 

[BMW Alpina]

No stone left unturned!!!
Excellent job.

Thank you so much @HKMP7 ,
Still more stones to be turned
which is what I did last weekend:

A few days ago, one of the system integrators for the robot I sold (who also have several CNC machines) provided me with a live status update of my rear axle being CNC Machined so it can accept the smaller inner diameter of the 848 Evo Brembo Rotor:


And here are the results:


And it finally arrived at my house on Saturday:





However, I only used the 848 EVO rear Brembo rotor/disk brake for test fit since I want to use the BrakeTech floating rotor. The problem is the BrakeTech rotor turn out to have about 0.5mm smaller inner diameter. As the picture below shows, it won't fit:


So I was forced to "DREMEL" the BrakeTech rotor a bit, then I paint the exposed aluminum on the BrakeTech rotor anodized red:


And now it finally fit, plus it has those very thin lines of anodized red peeking between the braketech aluminum carrier edge to the axle/hub:


Next, fit the axle/disk brake/rotor assembly onto the swing arm:








Beautiful, but wait there are MORE on the next posts below:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Install the Brembo Billet Nickel Plated Rear Brake Caliper:




They are GORGEOUS but ... how about this:
YEAH BABY


Still, we need to find the right color for the Wheel Bolt Spacer to be married with AELLA Titanium Rear Wheel Bolt:
Let's start with AEM Red Anodized


Then Aella Hard Anodized Wheel Spacer


Then AEM silver color:


Then AEM Grey Color:


Then another AEM silverish color (different shade of silver):


Well, I am now torn between AEM Grey and AEM Red Anodized but, it's a good problem to have

So the right side is already good how about the left side (Sprocket side)... well how about this:




Well, I was quite happy, but then there were some setbacks. I decided to tighten the Motocorse Titanium Sprocket 12points Nut to the AEM Rubber Cush Damper with Titanium Stud. Ducati 998 spec asks for 44nm torque, while the Panigale V4S spec asks for 48Nm torque.
I decided to try 44Nm, however, after many try, the AEM Titanium Stud hex socket STRIPPED ... and after I went to AEM website, I realized for their Titanium Stud AEM only allow 38Nm maximum... oh well, I guess, I just need to buy another set of AEM replacement Titanium Stud.
I contacted AEM-Factory in Italy and Francesco quickly respond (as always) advising me the correct stud part number. Lesson learned... I already suspect from the start on how a size 5 hex socket nut can withstand 44Nm, but now I know, it can't




In the meantime, I decided to weigh 2 different Titanium Washer from IM-Manufaktur Germany vs. the much thinner from AELLA Japan, and of course, the result is predictable, AELLA Titanium Washer is 50% lighter:

This is the sprocket side washer:



This is the wheel side washer:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Next, I purchased TITANIUM rear shock/swing arm bolt from an eBay UK seller that listed this bolt as specific for 998.
My current Titanium bolt was from IM-Manufactur, but its head is a bit smaller, resulting in it fitting a bit loose inside the swing arm bolt opening. I think because the IM-Manufakturer was specific for Monster S4RS
I also have the STEEL version bought from local US vendor HDESA which are a bit too large resulting it in seizing/jammed when I try to tightened it (luckily I managed to took it out).

So here are the measurements:
HDESA bolt head too big:


IM-Manufakturer for Monster S4RS, too small:


eBay UK for 998 just right:


Time to install the eBay UK Titanium bolt:



It enter super smooth and also tight fit, just the right size, aka size matters :




and since the rear axle was installed, I decided to move to the next stage which is put the whole frame/swingarm on the rear and front under triple clamp stand:

 

[BMW Alpina]

The Diablo Supercorsa V4 SP arrives today, and I posted more pictures here: DUCATI Panigale V4 25° Anniversario 916 BUILD Thread

 

[BMW Alpina]

There are a few more Ducati Original Parts that I want to purchase in BRAND NEW condition but no longer produced by Ducati factory.
So every night, I scour the internet (mostly eBay), hoping someone somewhere might want to get rid of their brand new old stock parts.

A few days ago, 1 part that made me obsessed with suddenly appears:



It is a simple sound dampening foam for the right side of the fairing. What drove me crazy was, Ducati still sell the left side which I already bought but they do not sell the right side anymore... and I just feel "unbalance" if one side is missing...
Now, I don't have to worry about it anymore and it just arrived yesterday

 

[BMW Alpina]

Today is Tire installation day. I installed bicycle tires before but NEVER installed a tubeless motorcycle tire ever, so it is a new learning experience :
I started by applying Rubber Grease on the O-Ring of the valve stem (this valve stem came with the Marchesini wheel):


Then add Medium Loctite 243 to the nut of the valvestem:


Panigale V4 manual specify 9Nm for this valve stem, but I worry it is too tight so I tightened to 8Nm only, but with Loctite 243, I am not worry about it loosened up:


Then tie-lock the rear tires:


Get the special tire installation lubricant. This is VERY IMPORTANT to help you "slide" the tire in and also to help with sealing the tire when you inflate it for the first time.
I remembered a long time ago, my mechanic at my own Aprilia store (back when I owned Aprilia Exclusive Distributor for my country of origin) was having issues inflating the tire due to a leak.
So he uses liquid soap. Well, this liquid is almost like liquid soap.


Apply the liquid liberally on the wheel and the tire edge:


And installed (well of course after,r a lot of pushing and well pushing) :


Then to the same with the front tire:



Front tire installed:



Inflate both the front and rear tire and voila, it is READY :


Ok, now I have another new experience... installing tubeless motorcycle tire

 

[bp_SFV4]

How would you rate the zip tie install on a scale of 1-10 as to difficulty?

 

[BMW Alpina]

How would you rate the zip tie install on a scale of 1-10 as to difficulty?

If 1 is the easiest and 10 is the most difficult,
then 3 for the rear tire because it would mangle a bit and need some persuasion for the bead to be back into its natural curve (it is simply a larger tire, so when you compress it using ZipTie, it stays compressed). I just punched the tire with my hand and also massaged it to get it back to its natural curve.
And 2 for the front tire because it is just harder to push in since it is a "tighter" fitting wheel (the wheel is not as wide as the rear tire), but the tighter front wheel and smaller tire also mean not much mangle that I need to deal with.
So, I rated both as almost super easy to do. You just have to use a lot of that special tire install lubricant, oh, and a compressor that is decently powerful.

Now taking out the tire from the wheel, on the other hand, might be much more difficult because it is pulling while installing the tire is only pushing it in.

 

[BMW Alpina]

AEM-Factory replacement titanium stud for the rear cush drive arrived and was installed . This time I torque it according to AEM so it won't strip the hex socket.

 

[BMW Alpina]

The original rubber seal/dust cup for the headlights are too small to accommodate the LED headlight bulbs so I purchase some after market rubber seal/dust cup that I need to modify to fit:

This is for the High beams:







And later I also installed the Low Beam Dust Cup:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Next, I install the front subframe made of magnesium for holding the fairing and the headlights:




Also test fit the wiring for the front brake light switch to my brake master cylinder with Ducati by Rizoma lever that came from my Ducati Panigale V4 25° Anniversario 916:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Now, time to install the Custom CNC Machined Locking Block (steering wheel locking system) and the Spacer that holds the end of the Ohlins Steering Damper to the Frame Mounting:




Use Red Loctite 271 for the Steering Wheel Block:


Test Fit with the Motocorse MV Agusta Steering Damper Bracket that I am using for this application:





Make Sure it will clear the steering lock pin mechanism:


Then install the spacer for the Ohlins Steering Damper to the frame. Notice, that I am now improving the strength by using not just 1 threaded hole to the frame but 2 threaded holes:





Then I fine-tune the center position of the Ohlins steering damper shaft, so it has equal stroke left and right:


Then Tightened all the ProTi Titanium Bolts:



More pictures next post:

 

[BMW Alpina]