Ducati 998s FE Final Edition (REPLICA but MODIFIED FAR BEYOND the Original) Build Thread

[PanigalePilot]

This it the most extensive bike build I've seen. You are doing a excellent job. @BMW Alpina
Keep up the awesome work.

I second that
Great work H
cheers

 

[BMW Alpina]

Thank you @HKMP7 and @PanigalePilot for the kind words,
I am also grateful to know you guys and others here, where we all share the same passion plus learn from each other

Next, I am working on the speedometer, here is the stock assy. where I bought a brand new 998 speedometer with km/h however... I found out the older generation 916 Km/h speedometer show the maximum speed of 300km/h... so....


First, I need to take a look at the backside again to remember the stock backside look:


well, before I can take the speedometer out, I need to take out the bulbs, but its kinda hard to take the bulb fitting out, so I need to pry it thus the blue painter's tape to protect the surface:


Then take out the speedometer trip meter knob:


Ok... it's separated:


next take out the rubber gasket and install it to the new speedometer


Ok, now the new speedometer is in place and I replace the stock steel washer with Titanium Blue Washer from ProBolt:


When I want to combined the speedometer housing back to the tachometer housing, I found out the Titanium Washer from ProBolt is too thin and the Nut cannot steadily hold the assembly:


So I add Nylon Washer as spacer:


Then, I place the ProBolt Blue Titanium Washer on top of it:


Back side is ready:


Now... the 300km/h speedometer is ready :


By the way,... because I was looking at all those filament bulbs that I took out... I remember, I need to replace all of them with LED bulbs...
so I spent the remainder of the afternoon doing research on every bulbs that I can replace to LED so... that will be very soon

 

[BMW Alpina]

Spooky Fast, my favorite paint shop in Arizona just sent me this picture today... they just finished painting all the engine parts in Magnesium color, just like the real Magnesium cylinder head cover:

 

[PanigalePilot]

Spooky Fast, my favorite paint shop in Arizona just sent me this picture today... they just finished painting all the engine parts in Magnesium color, just like the real Magnesium cylinder head cover:
View attachment 10791

Your bike is going to look brand new

 

[BMW Alpina]

Your bike is going to look brand new

Thanks @PanigalePilot ,
Those parts are all brand new but since the real magnesium version is no longer available in brand new condition anywhere I look, I decided to just buy all brand new aluminum parts but painted in in magnesium color.
The cylinder heads cover are real magnesium though... those are the only magnesium parts still available.
There are some used magnesium parts came out for sale from time to time but most of them (especially the parts in contact with coolant) suffers from corrosion so I rather use aluminum since I intend to keep this bike for as long as I life

Now, another parts that I had been waiting for more than 1 year finally arrived yesterday:


Yap, Ilmberger Carbon who is also one of our forum official vendor
@Ilmberger Carbonparts

They made a beautiful rear mudguard/chain guard in GLOSSY carbon fiber but just for this 1 time project, they are willing to special paint mine in Matte Finish and here it is, the only Matte Finish Ilmberger Mudguard for 998 .
(note, I tried to persuade them to also matte finish the heel guard, but they are unable to help me this time because, they have tons of back order due to COVID situation, .... so I understand).

Just take a look at those mudguard, "if looks could kill" this is it

 

[BMW Alpina]

I spent most of Saturday setting up my new laptop because my 4.5 years old laptop was showing symptoms of total breakdown, luckily in time for all the early Black Friday deals for laptops .
I must say 4.5 years is an eternity when it came to computer technology... this new laptop is so much faster than the old one that its like a Panigale V4S to a... electric bicycle

But this Sunday, I managed to work a bit on this project. First, below are some new circlips that just arrived from Ducati Omaha. This circlip is unique to this oil pump from 848 EVO. The older oil pump use a different Circlip.


For comparison purposes, the left gear is the old oil pump gear attached to the old oil pump originally came from the 999S engine. Look how thick the gear is, while the right side is the gear for this brand new 848 EVO oil pump (so much thinner and lighter):


First I install the base circlip and the dowel:


Then install the oil pump gear:


Finally the top circlip to lock the gear in between circlip:


To further balance the circlip, I rotate the circlip top and bottom a bit on the opposite orientation:


Then install brand new O-Rings, and lubricate them with oils:





Tighten the oil pump to the crankcase using the ProTi Titanium bolts, Titanium Washers (because the bolt is a bit too long for this new 848 Evo oil pump) and the original lock wave washers:


Done and Done:


I then packed this brand new crankcase assembly and shipped it to my engine builder today

 

[BMW Alpina]

Other things that arrived are (almost all) LED lights I need for the 998, from the front parking light, low beam, and rear brake to all LED bulbs needed for the instrument panel.
Most of them are IPF that I imported from Japan, and some are from VLEDS (here in the USA):

 

[BMW Alpina]

Today, I received another package containing the 848 Evo rear disk brake so I can compare the size with the BrakeTech version of the 848 Evo rear disk brake:


I was having issue that the BrakeTech 848 Evo rear disk brake were not able to fit onto the 998 rear hub/axlebecause the 998 machined lips to centered the disk brake is just a tad too small.
Initially, I thought maybe this is isolated issue due to BrakeTech version of the disk robot, but after this 848 Evo original Brembo/Ducati arrived today, I realized that the 848 Evo rear disk brake just have some very slightly differences in inner diameter.

So, I am going to send my 998 rear hub/axle to a CNC machine shop to be machined and also redrilled and tapped because turn out the 848 Evo use M8 bolts instead of M6.

 

[BMW Alpina]

I had been looking to purchase the right Carbon Fiber Heelguard to be paired with the Motocorse 1198 Rear Sets.
Initially, I placed an order for FullSix Carbon Fiber Heelguard, but after waiting for 6 months, the US dealer of Fullsix gave up and refund the payment to me because FullSix simply can't produce enough parts and huge back order.
I then placed an order at Ilmberger, but somehow it wasn't process together with my other order and I want almost a year.
So, I decided, I need to find an alternative, and somehow, I stumbled into a Part# for the original Ducati Performance Carbon Fiber Heel Guard for 1098 model !!!
Using this Part# I managed to find one small Ducati dealer in Japan who somehow has a pair of New Old Stock !!!
And it arrived today, and it looks the best compare to other design that I initially plan to purchase above... so this is another Blessing in Disguise :

 

[BMW Alpina]

A few months ago, I test fit my rear Ohlins Shocks and the RS rear rocker, however, the rocker was hitting the frame, so I needed to grind the frame a bit and also repaint the rocker (got scratched from touching the frame).
Initially, I want to wait until my engine build is finished so I could install the engine on the frame with the rear swing arm moving freely, however, since my engine builder is going on winter vacation, my engine will not be ready until spring at the earliest.
So I decided to just fit the whole rear suspension assembly since it is ready anyway:
Here are the RS rocker, inner bushing, Titanium Bolt from RaceTech along with ProBolt drilled titanium washers (there are 3 of them, one already on the bolt) and ProBolt locking 12 point Titanium nut, with the correct Grease B ready for action:


Yeah the slim hips of the RaceTech is SEXY :

Apply a lot of painters tape to prevent scratch while installing since a lot of rubber mallet banging will be required due to the super tight fight:


Lot of Gadus Grease B when installing the 2 Drilled Washers from ProBolt:


Special tools from Snap-On required to torque this 12point ProBolt Titanium Locking Nut to 42Nm:


Then install the top bolt holding the Ohlins rear shock, also Titanium from IM-Manufaktur in Germany:


Insert the lower Titanium Bolt (also from IM-Manufaktur) but only to hold the lower mounting but not tightened yet:


Also 42Nm torqued:


Fully Torqued:


Then install the ProTi Titanium Bolts (yes, I use 4 different manufacturer of Titanium hardware, from ProTi, ProBolt, RaceTech, and IM-Manufakturer)
this is for holding the top of the NCR Titanium (yes this is their Titanium) ride height adjuster:


NCR Titanium Ride Heigh Adjuster Installed:


Now, time to torque the lower bolt, but first, I need to fully insert the stock Ducati Steel Nut but already Painted Anodized Red (I can't find the titanium version and the one I bought from one of the US manufacturer that supposedly nicer steel have totally different thread):


And torque it to 42nm:


By the way, I am so surprised at how nice that stock Ducati Steel Nut looks after being painted Red Anodized:


I also purchased several ProTi titanium M5 bolts to cover the unused holes in the Ohlins rear shock for mounting the stroke sensor, but I received the wrong shape (pointed by my finger),
so I am ordering again for the more lower profile shape and will be in Titanium Silver color instead of gold:


Next, I replace the 2 Titanium bolts that came with the NCR ride height adjuster to ProTi because I like the ProTi TORX and lower profile shape better.
Before:


After:



And now time to admire the United Color of Benetton err Rear Suspension:






More pictures below:

 

[BMW Alpina]

In this picture below, notice how nice the ProBolt Drilled Titanium Washer looks
with the drilled holes peeking behind the ProTi Titanium Bolt:














The rear axle will have to wait since I need to CNC Machined it to fit the 848 Evo rear rotor:




This is NOT a stock Ohlins rear shock that normally came with the 998 from Ducati, but this is the higher-performance DU143, so it came with the preload adjuster.
I was lucky that Ohlins decided to reissue this brand-new shock after they discontinued production decades ago.
I also will buy one ProTi M6 Titanium Bolt to cover this hole on the preload adjuster:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Today, DHL delivered something special from WRS.it Italy .
Thank you to Luca Pajalunga from WRS.it for helping me with the many email back and forth to make sure we order the right part# and the right color


I ordered and have been waiting for this the past 6 months :


It had to be specially ordered because, I want Silver Color just like the current Ducati WSBK Team Color :


Front and Rear of course :


Marchesini MAGNESIUM M10RS Corse in Argento, Rear Wheel:










Front Wheel:






I was amazed at how light they both were when I lifted them up from their boxes. But I am more amazed by the Argento (Silver) finish.
I love it, and it will make my 998 looks "younger" and "modern."

Hopefully, my Ohlins RVP25 forks arrived soon so I can take out the stock Ohlins EC forks from the 25° Anniversario 916 to test fit the front wheel.
I also wonder how it will look with Motocorse Lower Caliper Bracket in Red (the gold pressurized tank version) and the revised GP4-MS with cooling fins

 

[bp_SFV4]

Can you weigh them?

 

[BMW Alpina]

I plan to weigh them one of this day... maybe before I install my tires so I can weight them both

 

[BMW Alpina]

Today, the 2006 999S Crankshaft arrived back from Ben Fox of Fox Performance - Ducati Crankshaft Balancing Specialists
and although it took longer than originally plan due to multiple factors that were outside Ben's control, however, the result is nothing short of BREATHTAKING.
It was so worth the wait .
I really recommend everyone to trust their crankshaft work to Ben Fox, who SPECIALIZED and FOCUSED on Crankshaft works

As usual, let's start with unboxing picture :


Then let's do some BEFORE (left pictures) and AFTER (right pictures):

In this first comparison, notice that Ben DRILLED 1 more "dimple" to lightened and balanced the crankshaft, but take a look at that REAL MIRROR Polishing:


Second comparison:
The KNIFED EDGING is really smooth and of course "MIRROR POLISHED"


Third comparison below, you can see how ROUGH the original crankshaft with many PORES and HOLES on it's surface, the jagged edge and compare to the AFTER Ben Fox treatment of MIRROR POLISHING with no jagged edge anymore.
Yes, once you installed the crankshaft inside the crankcase you won't be able to see the WORK OF ART Mirror Polishing anymore, however, I know and you know and everyone who see this documentation know that the crankshaft had been PROPERLY work and MIRROR FINISH to PERFECTION,
and it is part of the satisfying experience.


Now, let's compare the weight between this 2006 999S Crankshaft done by Ben Fox to the 2005 999S Crankshaft done by Boulder Motorsports:

First just the 2006 999S Crankshaft only without conrods by Ben Fox:


And on the left picture below, I am adding the Carillo STEEL Connecting Rods to the 2006 999S Crankshaft lightened balanced knife-edged polished by Ben Fox, while the right picture is the 2005 999S Crankshaft already installed with the TITANIUM Pankl connecting rods lightened balanced knife-edged polished by Boulder Motorsports:


As you can see, the 2006 999S Crankshaft by BenFox is actually lighter even though it is paired with the heavier STEEL Carillo connecting rods.

Now, please note that we the addition of the bearing to install the connecting rods, the 2006 999S Crankshaft with Carillo STEEL connecting rods will eventually (I suspect) be a bit heavier than the 2005 999S with the Pankl TITANIUM Connecting rods...
but the fact that the Titanium Pankl is quite lighter than the Carillo means, the 2006 999S crankshaft must be already lighter from Ducati factory, plus the extra worked by Ben Fox.

I also love the fact that the STEEL Carillo connecting rods should be more bulletproof compare to the lighter Pankl Connecting rods, so for this engine, I am 100% decided to go with the 2006 999S Crankshaft by Ben Fox even though it will be a tad heavier when those conrods are installed.

Still, for the RACING high rpm, fastest response, I suspect the 2005 999S Crankshaft by Boulder Motorsport will be more responsive due to the lighter total assembly (with the bearing) and that lower inertia of the Pankl TITANIUM Connecting Rods though...

I have more pictures below:

 

[HKMP7]

The wheels should be the same.
Here’s when I weighed mine.
Marchesini front mag stock bearing with spacers 3017g 6.6lbs
Marchesini rear mag wheel 3162g 6.9lbs

That silver color is fantastic

 

[BMW Alpina]

The wheels should be the same.
Here’s when I weighed mine.
Marchesini front mag stock bearing with spacers 3017g 6.6lbs
Marchesini rear mag wheel 3162g 6.9lbs

That silver color is fantastic

Thanks for the weight information and the kind words @HKMP7 ,
by the way, did you replace your stock bearing with ceramic bearings?
If yes, was it easy to do? at a glance, it looks not that easy and I worry might scratch the finish while doing it...
I wish Marchesini offer ceramic bearing options like BST.

 

[BMW Alpina]

This Sunday is the Sunday for Front Steering System :

Let's start with the 3 Ducati Factory Tools to Press the Inner Bearing Race, Press the Outer Bearing Race and the tools to adjust the Steering Tube Eccentric (Rake/Degree). This is a MUST HAVE tools that made everything much easier :


The custom CNC machine lower triple clamp that I purchased because I will be using the 58mm Ohlins EC Fork Diameter from my 25° Anniversario 916 came in 2 separate pieces.
The Lower triple clamp and the shaft, which uses the THREADED connection between them:


From my collection of Loctite, I found out the Loctite 263 has the HIGHEST breakdown torque, so I choose this one and apply it LIBERALLY to the threads:


Then I use the OLD Aluminum stock steering head nut and apply plenty of Grease B:


The Ducati 998S official torque for this nut is only 20Nm, but The Panigale V4 recommends 40Nm. Since I want the lower triple clamp and its shaft to be super tight and will not loosen when I take out the steering head nut, I decided to torque it to 40Nm:
(this special tools is also a must have item:




Next to the steering tube. So I bought a Brand New Steering Tube but to my surprise, it came with the 2 inner bearing race installed, so I use this bearing pulley set (slide hammer):




After many blows, I finally able to take one side of the inner race bearing out:





Next, for the other side, I decided to test my other bearing removal tool:


First I need to grease the thread of the tool:


Then tightened the inner grip of the tool:


Use two wrench to start pulling the inner bearing race:


But later I found out this tool is a bit too short and barely have enough diameter so it bottom up and can't pull the inner race bearing completely out (only 70% of the way out), so I revert back to use the slide hammer tool to finish the job:


Continue below:

 

[BMW Alpina]

And it's out:



Next is to insert the 2 new INNER RACE bearing into the steering Tube. Please note as I posted several weeks ago, I am now upgrading the Bearing to the NTN Roller Bearing.
I did forget to take pictures so when you see the pictures below, you notice the inner race bearing already installed (ignore that fact) and just follow my sentences since the picture is for illustration purposes only:

First, I grease the thread of the Ducati Special Tool Bearing Insertion Tool:


Then I add some motor oil onto the inner surface of the steering tube (again ignore the fact that the inner race bearing is already installed in this picture):


Then I heat up both surfaces (both ends) of the steering tube back and forth using heat gun (supposed to be heated to 150 degree Celsius):


Once it is hot enough (I heat it until the engine oil start to vaporized), quickly insert the inner race bearing in place and position the tools:


Before the steering head tube have a chance to cool down, start driving those bearing into the steering head tube:



And it's IN all the way:



Now we can move back to the lower triple clamp. I took out the upper ring nut so I can slide in this lower bearing seal:



Next, heat up the outer bearing race to 125 degree celsius (oh apply a lot of engine oil to the steering shaft and also the the outer bearing race before you heat it up):


Then slide it to the shaft (it just glides so smoothly after being heated up), then quickly use the bearing insertion tools and hold it to make sure it won't pump back up (I also use the heat gun in cooling mode to help cool the bearing fast so it grip to the shaft):


And it stays there, sitting perfectly:


Continued below:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Next, is to insert the steering tube into the frame, by first applying a lot of Grease B to the surfaces (top and bottom):


Also the inner side of the frame, just to be sure it will slide easily:


But despite some light tapping with rubber mallet, it stuck and don't want to go in further:


So more stronger banging required meaning time to protect the surface using plenty of blue painter's tape:


But despite more rubber mallet banging, its only move a bit but not all the way in so, I use some plastic car body panel tool to pry out the pinch area and then drive the bolt from the other side to help "pry out" the pinch area.
Again, notice those bolts came in from the other side to pry the pinch area out:


Then with a bit more banging with rubber mallet, it finally went all the way:


However,... I managed to insert it on the wrong orientation, because this is the "track mode" where the steering will be much quicker and not as stable, and I prefer the more relaxed street steering rake soooooo, I put a lot of painters table on the lips of the eccentric adjustment to make sure I won't accidentally scratch the painted surface with the adjustment spanner.
Left picture is TRACK mode, and right picture after adjustment become street mode:




Next time to apply a lot of Grease B to the bearing and to the lower steering tube:


Insert the steering tube, then insert the top bearing (heat the top bearing to 125 Celsius first), apply plenty of Grease B, apply the upper bearing seal then press them in with the steering head nut:


Then tightened the steering tube pinch bolt and also the anti-rotation bolt:


Clean up extra grease on the bolts and add circlip to safely secure them, and yes, ProTi Titanium bolt is a must :


Still need to clean all this grease