Hi Kodakhodak, you can also contact Cordona Headoffice directly in Sweden.
They were responsive to my inquiry in the past. This is their email: info@cordona.net
or you can also fill the form on their webpage: Contact | Cordona Quickshifters
Ducati Panigale Bayliss 1st Championship 20th Anniversary - Project Build
- Thread starter KODAKHODAK
- Start date
They were responsive to my inquiry in the past. This is their email: info@cordona.net
or you can also fill the form on their webpage: Contact | Cordona Quickshifters
KODAKHODAK
Well-known member
Got it to work this morning- thank gawd
KODAKHODAK
Well-known member
Yeah finally it switched over, basically when you turn the ignition on, wait for
1. Flash soon as it goes out
2. Hold Gear Pedal Up - wait for the Rapid Flashes to come on, soon as this happens
3. Start shifting up 6 times then release - then 2 other flashes will flash means its in standard mode.
Anyways took it bright an early this morning for a flex - and gave it some beans to test the up shifts and butter smooth downshifts. I feel this will resolve many of my issues as of late, just feels like a new bike again in the shifting department.
KODAKHODAK
Well-known member
only thing I have notice with this shifter is when I do a roller boost to top of 6th gear around 200kmph, I roll off for a bit and the bike is in low revs won't shift down, but if I do it with high rpm its ok - is this normal?Aces.
The downshifts with the Cordona are a thing to behold for sure. I'm not 100% on the up, but I think its a user issue.
I'm glad you got it sorted. The Cordona seems to prefer medium to light but very decisive and quick presses to function.
KODAKHODAK
Well-known member
Have heard in some instances the internal gear selector can jam up - is mine faulty with all the issues I have had with down shifts?
I have similar issues as this guy:
Gear Selector Jamming Internally
I have similar issues as this guy:
Gear Selector Jamming Internally
KODAKHODAK
Well-known member
I am on a V2, I am pretty much rolling off throttle then hitting the gear shifter down but it didn’t last night, I tried to manual blip it eventually did go down I have heard internal part could be failing
KODAKHODAK
Well-known member
it only happens at low revs in the RPM on the downshift, ill have to test some more, but if I encounter same issues prior to the new Cordona QS then it has to be internal issues from what I have read. Cheers for your help
KODAKHODAK
Well-known member
only went from a standard 14T to a 15T rear is standard 43T
KODAKHODAK
Well-known member
Do I just turn QS off and use it manually when doing the tyre calibration? Or just perform default wheel calibration click up to second gear and allow the cali calibration to do its thing as when you do a wheel calibration it asks you to be in 2nd gear
KODAKHODAK
Well-known member
Finally got the transfer sticker for the V2 Panigale, even though it’s designed for the V4S, I am currently naming the Bayliss Edition a V2S
KODAKHODAK
Well-known member
Question again, fellas, essentially V2 owners, have you ever raised the rear of your Ducati to gain a bit more front-end steer? Currently, I feel mine pushes on track at high speed and seeing if some changes to suspension would help.
(edited: perfect spelling now
)
(edited: perfect spelling now
)
Last edited by a moderator:
You know you can hit the edit button if you have made a spelling mistake and easily fix it.
V2 or GSR1000R makes no difference. Suspension Tuning is the same for all bikes. I assume you mean "raised the rear of your ducati to gain a bit more front end steer". Read up on Rake and Trail. Plenty of stuff out there. Perhaps you are after quicker steering. You can either have steering quickness or stability or a range in between. Raising the rear will steepen the rake and reduce trail. This will result in quicker steering and may be great for slow tight corners or quick change of direction in the s turns. The downside is that the bike will be less stable on a long fast sweeper as every movement on the bars will have a bigger result. I previously did changes when I first got my 1199S and a 5 mm difference in ride height makes a difference. 10mm feels like you are on a different bike. I was very surprised at the differences small adjustments make. Depending on the rear shock brand, 1 turn of the ride height adjuster will alter ride height by 2 to 4 mm. A 4mm ride height adjustment will change trail by 1 mm. You will actually feel that. Every suspension book I have suggests strongly to record your start point with accurate to the millimetre measurements. Do one adjustment at a time and record it. Ride the bike and test. I personally found that after adjusting ride height front and rear, that I went back to stock OEM settings and spent more time adjusting compression and rebound dampening. I assume you have set the "Sag" on your bike. That is the start point. You adjust to your own requirements from there. If you ride Eastern Creek I assume you are local in Sydney. There are a few suspension adjusters that will set sag for you. Usually a 3 person job with you on the bike in your riding gear. (You can purchase ride height tools to do it yourself however the cost is more than getting someone to do it for you.) Your weight is what makes the difference. On exactly the same bike there will be small differences in "sag" for each rider. The bigger difference in weight will equal bigger differences in sag. It is a long post however it is not an easy answer in just a few words. Good luck with it. It is great fun reading, learning and then going out to test.
V2 or GSR1000R makes no difference. Suspension Tuning is the same for all bikes. I assume you mean "raised the rear of your ducati to gain a bit more front end steer". Read up on Rake and Trail. Plenty of stuff out there. Perhaps you are after quicker steering. You can either have steering quickness or stability or a range in between. Raising the rear will steepen the rake and reduce trail. This will result in quicker steering and may be great for slow tight corners or quick change of direction in the s turns. The downside is that the bike will be less stable on a long fast sweeper as every movement on the bars will have a bigger result. I previously did changes when I first got my 1199S and a 5 mm difference in ride height makes a difference. 10mm feels like you are on a different bike. I was very surprised at the differences small adjustments make. Depending on the rear shock brand, 1 turn of the ride height adjuster will alter ride height by 2 to 4 mm. A 4mm ride height adjustment will change trail by 1 mm. You will actually feel that. Every suspension book I have suggests strongly to record your start point with accurate to the millimetre measurements. Do one adjustment at a time and record it. Ride the bike and test. I personally found that after adjusting ride height front and rear, that I went back to stock OEM settings and spent more time adjusting compression and rebound dampening. I assume you have set the "Sag" on your bike. That is the start point. You adjust to your own requirements from there. If you ride Eastern Creek I assume you are local in Sydney. There are a few suspension adjusters that will set sag for you. Usually a 3 person job with you on the bike in your riding gear. (You can purchase ride height tools to do it yourself however the cost is more than getting someone to do it for you.) Your weight is what makes the difference. On exactly the same bike there will be small differences in "sag" for each rider. The bigger difference in weight will equal bigger differences in sag. It is a long post however it is not an easy answer in just a few words. Good luck with it. It is great fun reading, learning and then going out to test.
KODAKHODAK
Well-known member
Thank you appreciate the responseYou know you can hit the edit button if you have made a spelling mistake and easily fix it.
V2 or GSR1000R makes no difference. Suspension Tuning is the same for all bikes. I assume you mean "raised the rear of your ducati to gain a bit more front end steer". Read up on Rake and Trail. Plenty of stuff out there. Perhaps you are after quicker steering. You can either have steering quickness or stability or a range in between. Raising the rear will steepen the rake and reduce trail. This will result in quicker steering and may be great for slow tight corners or quick change of direction in the s turns. The downside is that the bike will be less stable on a long fast sweeper as every movement on the bars will have a bigger result. I previously did changes when I first got my 1199S and a 5 mm difference in ride height makes a difference. 10mm feels like you are on a different bike. I was very surprised at the differences small adjustments make. Depending on the rear shock brand, 1 turn of the ride height adjuster will alter ride height by 2 to 4 mm. A 4mm ride height adjustment will change trail by 1 mm. You will actually feel that. Every suspension book I have suggests strongly to record your start point with accurate to the millimetre measurements. Do one adjustment at a time and record it. Ride the bike and test. I personally found that after adjusting ride height front and rear, that I went back to stock OEM settings and spent more time adjusting compression and rebound dampening. I assume you have set the "Sag" on your bike. That is the start point. You adjust to your own requirements from there. If you ride Eastern Creek I assume you are local in Sydney. There are a few suspension adjusters that will set sag for you. Usually a 3 person job with you on the bike in your riding gear. (You can purchase ride height tools to do it yourself however the cost is more than getting someone to do it for you.) Your weight is what makes the difference. On exactly the same bike there will be small differences in "sag" for each rider. The bigger difference in weight will equal bigger differences in sag. It is a long post however it is not an easy answer in just a few words. Good luck with it. It is great fun reading, learning and then going out to test.