Brooklynv4
Well-known member
How was the quality on the China carbon I’m on a budget also lol. I’ve had bad experience with a tail I ordered in the past the stuff was almost see through and if you could provide a link I would appreciate it
Jrkk's budget build V4 base
- Thread starter Jrkk
- Start date
Jrkk
Well-known member
Hi.
Here is some ebay links that I found from my purchased lists.
Didn't find rear fender but those are everywhere.
My friend bought it from Germany, and it look exactly same as mine from china. So all those cheap stuff might come same china factory.
My parts was all good quality, but not as final products as ilmberger, Peter lieb or fullsix.
Example, exhaust shield were missing heat shield, but you got that already, or did you use it all.
Rear fender had som alignment issues and needed some spacers. Surface finish was good on all of those.
Swingarm protection:
Exhaust cover:
Frame covers:
Here is some ebay links that I found from my purchased lists.
Didn't find rear fender but those are everywhere.
My friend bought it from Germany, and it look exactly same as mine from china. So all those cheap stuff might come same china factory.
My parts was all good quality, but not as final products as ilmberger, Peter lieb or fullsix.
Example, exhaust shield were missing heat shield, but you got that already, or did you use it all.
Rear fender had som alignment issues and needed some spacers. Surface finish was good on all of those.
Swingarm protection:
For Ducati Panigale V4 / V4S 100% Carbon Fiber Swingarm Swing Arm Guard Cover | eBay
100% Carbon Fiber Swimgarm Cover Gloss Black For DUCATI Panigale V4 V4S. FitDUCATI Panigale V4 V4S. 3K Twill weave Gloss 100% Carbon fiber made. Material: 100% Carbon fiber. This product is made of carbon fiber.
www.ebay.com
Exhaust cover:
For Ducati Panigale V4 2018 2019 100% Carbon Fiber Exhaust Cover Heat Shield | eBay
FitDucati Panigale V4. Made With Authentic 3K Prepreg Carbon Fiber. Material: 100% Carbon Fiber. This product is made of carbon fiber. TypeExhaust Cover Heat Shield. MaterialCarbon Fiber. Country/Region of ManufactureChina.
www.ebay.com
Frame covers:
For Ducati Panigale V4 2018 2019 Heat Shield Frame Cover Gloss Twil Carbon Fiber | eBay
For Ducati V4 2018 2019. For Ducati V4S 2018 2019. The material is 100% Carbon Fiber. Gloss Twill Weave.
www.ebay.com
Brooklynv4
Well-known member
I’m going to order the frame covers that’s what I’m concerned about. I already have the carbon rear fender that came with the termi 4uscite exhaust
Brooklynv4
Well-known member
I just didn’t want to order the covers and they were super thin and flimsy as that happened to me in the past. I have some heat shield tape left if not I can go to autozone and buy more
Brooklynv4
Well-known member
I honestly want it more to help with the heat situation. I got a blister on the inside of my knee last year
Jrkk
Well-known member
Frame covers had heat shield on.
Jrkk
Well-known member
Valve collets are hard to get right now. I hear from my dealer that they are having broblems at the Bologna. Over month was delivery time.
Gladly I find some from Germany and waiting them to arrive next week.
Meanwhile slightly polished rear cylinder cams, as they had discoloration.
Right side is how they all looked.
This was probably meaningless.
Found some yt video from asia racing team where official Ducati service do full repair to V4R engine. Cams looked same and in they went.
Gladly I find some from Germany and waiting them to arrive next week.Meanwhile slightly polished rear cylinder cams, as they had discoloration.
Right side is how they all looked.
This was probably meaningless.
Found some yt video from asia racing team where official Ducati service do full repair to V4R engine. Cams looked same and in they went.
Brooklynv4
Well-known member
I probably would do the same just for the ease factor. Nothing getting in the way and have space to work.
You’re right Jrkk, looking at my bike now it would be a lot easier to remove the frame and have the front cylinder totally exposed. I guess you had to remove the chain tensioner bolt also to be able to remove the timing sprocket.
I wouldn’t worry about those blue marks on the cams shafts, I always had those marks on the 1299 and didn’t cause any issues and it was still a beast with 58,000 miles when I traded it in for the V4.
I wouldn’t worry about those blue marks on the cams shafts, I always had those marks on the 1299 and didn’t cause any issues and it was still a beast with 58,000 miles when I traded it in for the V4.
Jrkk
Well-known member
Time to write a summary of the valve adjustment operation before I forget the details.
As I wrote earlier, I had an oil leak from both valve covers. So, while changing seals, I also decided to check my valve clearances.
Service manual states many unbelievable procedures that is NOT necessary to do. The most important things that you don’t need to do is, take of the cylinder heads neither the rockers.
To ease up engine rotation, remove spark plugs. You need long 12mm, 12-point socket that is grounded to 15mm outside diameter, or buy 88713.3633 from Ducati.
Open timing inspection cover from left side, and fit 8mm bolt with lock nut on it. Open valve covers and rotate crankshaft to clockwise, until flat point of both camshafts is line up and facing up. Now see how your cam chain sprocket bolts are. One of them is pointing down and can’t be removed. Turn crank so that you can access this bolt, remove it, and turn crank again, flat point facing up. Also then marks on cam chain sprocket is lining to head and dot is facing up. Now cylinder no. 1 and 4 are TDC position.
Remove cam chain tensioner and two remaining bolts from cam chain sprocket. Lift sprocket and chain off from the camshaft.
Now don’t touch crankshaft anymore, or you need to find TDC again. This is done via inspection cover from right side of the engine, and you need special shaft for this. 88713.5396 (this can be done easily from right diameter rod, but I didn’t do that, I simply didn’t touch my crank, when cams were off)
Do your measurements how you prefer.
I check openers with cam lobe facing opposite to valve. And closers from entire diam from base circle, trying to find tightest spot.
Remove cams and lift open rockers to remove open shims with magnet.
Remember that your pistons are TDC in cylinders 1 and 4 so it’s impossible to drop valves from 1 and 4, but 1 and 3 cylinders need some secure option.
Possibilities are:
-compressed air to cylinder via sparkplug hole.
-Cable tie to valve stem.
-Do 1 and 4 cylinders completely, then rotate crank 180° to find TDC on 2 and 3.
Remember that don’t touch crank when cams are off. You can if you have that special tool 88713.5396. what is used to find TDC on 1&4.
I did it with cable tie on valve stem. Easy to place but PITA to take out from far-left side valves. I used soldering iron to melt cable tie and pliers to pull it away.
Detach some plastic tool to closer rocker so it presses return spring. Now you can press closer shim down and remove half ring collets with magnet. Almost all my collets were cut to four pieces.
My measurements also reveals that you should change all collets, because they have huge effect on clearances, broken or not.
When checking with new collets and shims, leave cam chain sprocket away, by this, you can turn cams separately by your hand. (not full turn cos valves are hitting piston, but enough to measure)
Do your math and put right shims back. Again, use some plastic tool to press closer rocker, slide closer shim to valve stem, then you can drop collets to your motor
. Find them with magnet and use tweezers this time. Also, good practice to use some towel in oil channels so if you drop some it can be founded. Carefully remove plastic tool to lock collets in place. Install opening shims
Install cams, use tool 88713.5397 (I made my own) to lock cams in place, install cam chain and sprocket so that markings align and dot facing up, remember hard Loctite. Install cam chain tensioner and tighten it. Before turning crank, double check all your markings, remove cam holding tool, rotate crank couple of full turns and check that front and rear cylinders are both, markings aligned and cam flat spot facing up at same time. Install third cam chain sprocket bolt.
I worked rear cylinder first and didn’t touch front cylinders cam chain sprocket bolts. By this you can confirm timing of rear cyl. Because you haven’t touched front cams, timing is correct there, when turning crank so that front cyl cams flat spot is facing up, also rear cams flat spot should be facing up. And markings on cam chain sprocket lining. Easy to see if you one tooth wrong.
With front cylinder, it’s possible to do when radiator and fans are removed, but if you want little extra room, I suggest that you remove front frame.
Place jack under oil filter case with rubber pad. Remove top triple, loosen, and slide off handlebars, place them top of airbox with cable ties. Remove ignition switch connectors, front harness connectors and 4 big bolts that keeps frame to engine. Slide frame away from engine.
This is also good point to check how air filter assembly is sealed. Mine was poorly, I used some foam kind of sealing tape between frame and plastic airduct.
I have done some excel sheet with interactive colors to ease up the valve adjustments, which I can share if wanted and can be freely modified.
Remember, if you like to check shim thickness, measure them from inside, to get right values.
As I wrote earlier, I had an oil leak from both valve covers. So, while changing seals, I also decided to check my valve clearances.
Service manual states many unbelievable procedures that is NOT necessary to do. The most important things that you don’t need to do is, take of the cylinder heads neither the rockers.
To ease up engine rotation, remove spark plugs. You need long 12mm, 12-point socket that is grounded to 15mm outside diameter, or buy 88713.3633 from Ducati.
Open timing inspection cover from left side, and fit 8mm bolt with lock nut on it. Open valve covers and rotate crankshaft to clockwise, until flat point of both camshafts is line up and facing up. Now see how your cam chain sprocket bolts are. One of them is pointing down and can’t be removed. Turn crank so that you can access this bolt, remove it, and turn crank again, flat point facing up. Also then marks on cam chain sprocket is lining to head and dot is facing up. Now cylinder no. 1 and 4 are TDC position.
Remove cam chain tensioner and two remaining bolts from cam chain sprocket. Lift sprocket and chain off from the camshaft.
Now don’t touch crankshaft anymore, or you need to find TDC again. This is done via inspection cover from right side of the engine, and you need special shaft for this. 88713.5396 (this can be done easily from right diameter rod, but I didn’t do that, I simply didn’t touch my crank, when cams were off)
Do your measurements how you prefer.
I check openers with cam lobe facing opposite to valve. And closers from entire diam from base circle, trying to find tightest spot.
Remove cams and lift open rockers to remove open shims with magnet.
Remember that your pistons are TDC in cylinders 1 and 4 so it’s impossible to drop valves from 1 and 4, but 1 and 3 cylinders need some secure option.
Possibilities are:
-compressed air to cylinder via sparkplug hole.
-Cable tie to valve stem.
-Do 1 and 4 cylinders completely, then rotate crank 180° to find TDC on 2 and 3.
Remember that don’t touch crank when cams are off. You can if you have that special tool 88713.5396. what is used to find TDC on 1&4.
I did it with cable tie on valve stem. Easy to place but PITA to take out from far-left side valves. I used soldering iron to melt cable tie and pliers to pull it away.
Detach some plastic tool to closer rocker so it presses return spring. Now you can press closer shim down and remove half ring collets with magnet. Almost all my collets were cut to four pieces.
My measurements also reveals that you should change all collets, because they have huge effect on clearances, broken or not.
When checking with new collets and shims, leave cam chain sprocket away, by this, you can turn cams separately by your hand. (not full turn cos valves are hitting piston, but enough to measure)
Do your math and put right shims back. Again, use some plastic tool to press closer rocker, slide closer shim to valve stem, then you can drop collets to your motor
. Find them with magnet and use tweezers this time. Also, good practice to use some towel in oil channels so if you drop some it can be founded. Carefully remove plastic tool to lock collets in place. Install opening shimsInstall cams, use tool 88713.5397 (I made my own) to lock cams in place, install cam chain and sprocket so that markings align and dot facing up, remember hard Loctite. Install cam chain tensioner and tighten it. Before turning crank, double check all your markings, remove cam holding tool, rotate crank couple of full turns and check that front and rear cylinders are both, markings aligned and cam flat spot facing up at same time. Install third cam chain sprocket bolt.
I worked rear cylinder first and didn’t touch front cylinders cam chain sprocket bolts. By this you can confirm timing of rear cyl. Because you haven’t touched front cams, timing is correct there, when turning crank so that front cyl cams flat spot is facing up, also rear cams flat spot should be facing up. And markings on cam chain sprocket lining. Easy to see if you one tooth wrong.
With front cylinder, it’s possible to do when radiator and fans are removed, but if you want little extra room, I suggest that you remove front frame.
Place jack under oil filter case with rubber pad. Remove top triple, loosen, and slide off handlebars, place them top of airbox with cable ties. Remove ignition switch connectors, front harness connectors and 4 big bolts that keeps frame to engine. Slide frame away from engine.
This is also good point to check how air filter assembly is sealed. Mine was poorly, I used some foam kind of sealing tape between frame and plastic airduct.
I have done some excel sheet with interactive colors to ease up the valve adjustments, which I can share if wanted and can be freely modified.
Remember, if you like to check shim thickness, measure them from inside, to get right values.
Jrkk
Well-known member
Ok, this isn't right.
There was oily mess last winter also, so I decided to do something about it.
At first I need to check that is this waterpump leak hole leaking all this oil, or is it coming from somewhere else.
So, airbox need to go off.
No leak marks anywhere, so it must be waterpump.
There was never coolant, so I start to dig info about waterpump.
There is two leak channels from between waterpump seals. Upper one is venting hole and lower is actual leak hole.
If water seal is bad, it should leak coolant, but it can also leak oil, if oilseal is bad. It could be that small amount of oil is acceptable.
Here is oilseal that is on bearing.
Also those channels visible.
I found good info on German Ducati forum about leak hole.
You could make thread to that hole, attach joint and hose, then lead to somewhere else where you can check leakage easier.
To be continued...
There was oily mess last winter also, so I decided to do something about it.
At first I need to check that is this waterpump leak hole leaking all this oil, or is it coming from somewhere else.
So, airbox need to go off.
No leak marks anywhere, so it must be waterpump.
There was never coolant, so I start to dig info about waterpump.
There is two leak channels from between waterpump seals. Upper one is venting hole and lower is actual leak hole.
If water seal is bad, it should leak coolant, but it can also leak oil, if oilseal is bad. It could be that small amount of oil is acceptable.
Here is oilseal that is on bearing.
Also those channels visible.
I found good info on German Ducati forum about leak hole.
You could make thread to that hole, attach joint and hose, then lead to somewhere else where you can check leakage easier.
To be continued...
bp_SFV4
Active member
There may be relevant information here...
From a service bulletin listed on the NHTSA's website.
From a service bulletin listed on the NHTSA's website.
