The instructions consist of that piece of paper I posted. Lol
The lines have labels showing where they go.
HKMP7's V4S Journal
- Thread starter HKMP7
- Start date
The lines have labels showing where they go.
STM DRY CLUTCH # 96080031AA INSTALL
The day has come my bike will become a "real" Ducati. Here is some supplemental info about this kit. If your Vin # falls below ZDM1100W4#009397# you will need to buy a engine case. Part # 243P0041BH. I bet you're thinking why would I need another case when I already have the 2 piece case design. Apparently on the early models the case has some extra metal that will prevent the "cereal bowl" from sitting flush. On the new part # that metal is machined down. Other than that the cases are the same.
Just look at it.
Start up
The day has come my bike will become a "real" Ducati. Here is some supplemental info about this kit. If your Vin # falls below ZDM1100W4#009397# you will need to buy a engine case. Part # 243P0041BH. I bet you're thinking why would I need another case when I already have the 2 piece case design. Apparently on the early models the case has some extra metal that will prevent the "cereal bowl" from sitting flush. On the new part # that metal is machined down. Other than that the cases are the same.
Just look at it.
Start up
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STM DRY CLUTCH # 96080031AA INSTALL
The day has come my bike will become a "real" Ducati. Here is some supplemental info about this kit. If your Vin # falls below ZDM1100W4#009397# you will need to buy a engine case. Part # 243P0041BH. I bet you're thinking why would I need another case when I already have the 2 piece case design. Apparently on the early models the case has some extra metal that will prevent the "cereal bowl" from sitting flush. On the new part # that metal is machined down. Other than that the cases are the same.
Just look at it.
Start up
G O R G E O U S
Talking to a random rider on Sunday down from Queensland on his SS. He said he'd put an STM dry clutch on his V4R upon advice from Troy Bayliss. He had not been happy with longevity of the Ducati dry clutch - about 5000km - although I did mention that 3-5000km seems to be what everybody is getting. Anyway apparently Troy's son Ollie has been running an STM clutch all year on the Cube Racing Ducati (Troy manages) and they were very impressed as he has not needed to change it once. Apart from that it's gorgeous imo which is what really counts 
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Routine maintenance
While doing the Dry clutch also did the annual service. So I did some upgrades.
Aella Oil cap and Probolt Gold Ti hardware
Here is the factory oil plug after cleaning the oil and Threebond off. There were zero metal shavings on the magnet I don't know if that's a good thing or should I be worried
Finished product
While doing the Dry clutch also did the annual service. So I did some upgrades.
Aella Oil cap and Probolt Gold Ti hardware
Here is the factory oil plug after cleaning the oil and Threebond off. There were zero metal shavings on the magnet I don't know if that's a good thing or should I be worried
Finished product
Rear ABS delete
The keen eye would have noticed in the dry clutch video I don't have the lines going to the ABS box. In a effort to simplify and clean up the bike I went straight from the caliper to the master. So that means several things first I need to block off the ports on the ABS box. Secondly I will need a new custom length rear brakeline.
Block off bolts.
These are Ti and drilled for safety wire
Not going to leave them plain come on. Torched them purple
Fren Tubo custom rear line
I bought 2 different 90deg fittings for the master cylinder end. Both of which were too close to the master. So I ended up using the 45deg fitting I already had on there.
So the specs I went with are 25deg on caliper end 915mm center to center and 45deg rotatable fitting on master end.
Here is setup before ABS delete.
Current setup
I changed the heat protection to gold
I chopped up the carbon bracket a bit more. No errors on the dash and no leaks job done.
The keen eye would have noticed in the dry clutch video I don't have the lines going to the ABS box. In a effort to simplify and clean up the bike I went straight from the caliper to the master. So that means several things first I need to block off the ports on the ABS box. Secondly I will need a new custom length rear brakeline.
Block off bolts.
These are Ti and drilled for safety wire
Not going to leave them plain come on. Torched them purple
Fren Tubo custom rear line
I bought 2 different 90deg fittings for the master cylinder end. Both of which were too close to the master. So I ended up using the 45deg fitting I already had on there.
So the specs I went with are 25deg on caliper end 915mm center to center and 45deg rotatable fitting on master end.
Here is setup before ABS delete.
Current setup
I changed the heat protection to gold
I chopped up the carbon bracket a bit more. No errors on the dash and no leaks job done.
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MaverickiB
Well-known member
Now it looks cleaner AND you have a functional rear brake.
craig bush
Well-known member
it wasn’t functional before?
It was but I think he’s referencing some people having issues with it going “soft”.
This making is useless. Think I’ve used it one time in 3 years owing the bike.
craig bush
Well-known member
Ah ok. Make sure you let us know - I’ve got ABS deleted, the Suter rear master, and have considered upgrading the rear caliper.
MaverickiB
Well-known member
My rear brake was ridiculously squishy and borderline useless while the ABS was hooked up, no matter how much I bled it. Instantly became functional with the ABS delete.
Weird because mine was fine even with the abs. Maybe the Fren Tubo lines helped.
Did you bleed it with the help of vacuum bleeder? I wasn't able to bleed my rear brake until I used vacuum bleeder. I also used Stahlbus quick bleeder valve on both the caliper and the rear master cylinder (banjo bolts).
It's very hard to get rid of any air in the rear brake lines without vacuum bleeder because it is very long from rear set to ABS and back to rear MC.
On mine, ABS is always connected, but now my rear Master Cylinder is super hard when pushed, and I think it actually have too little of travel (for the lever) now.
Maybe the diameter of my new rear master cylinder is also larger than the stock master cylinder thus less travel.
I do have a vacuum bleeder but I actually used a Reverse brake bleeder on the rear caliper. It basically pushes fluid from the caliper to the master vs pulling the fluid down.
The theory behind it is air naturally wants to rise.
Front ABS delete
After deleting the rear and cleaning up all those lines. I was left with this. Not as clean as I would like.
So to get more braking feel and simplicity we are deleting the front. Two more Ti plugs these I burned to a Aqua color.
I will need a new front brakeline as well. Easy. I contacted our forum sponsor Brad @MOTION SBK. He had me send my line in for customization.
He got the line altered for my setup and back to me in less than 2 days excellent service.
I'm going to bleed the fronts this weekend if time permits with Castrol SRF
After deleting the rear and cleaning up all those lines. I was left with this. Not as clean as I would like.
So to get more braking feel and simplicity we are deleting the front. Two more Ti plugs these I burned to a Aqua color.
I will need a new front brakeline as well. Easy. I contacted our forum sponsor Brad @MOTION SBK. He had me send my line in for customization.
He got the line altered for my setup and back to me in less than 2 days excellent service.
I'm going to bleed the fronts this weekend if time permits with Castrol SRF
