Ducati 998s FE Final Edition (REPLICA but MODIFIED FAR BEYOND the Original) Build Thread

[BMW Alpina]

There are a few other iterations because, either the 2 In and Out fitting hit each other and I am unable to fully tightened them, or they hit the surface of the fuel pump base plate, or they hit the vertical cylinder head...





But eventually, I did not use this configuration... because the Staubli Dry Break is just too big to be put directly under the fuel pump base plate. It will hit with the airbox under the gas tank. Don't worry, I still found a way to use the Staubli, and even make it easier to access. I will post soon.

 

[PanigalePilot]

Next, well actually this is many months ago (I just forgot to post it), a PAIR of Custom CNC machine Titanium Injection Holder arrives:

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I also found a pair of Titanium adapters to AN6 for the fuel line to be attached. This Titanium Adapter (with heatsinks) normally used for part of Turbo system:
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I attached the AN6 adapter to the Titanium Injector Holder:
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Here is how the injector being hold by the Titanium Injector Holder:
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This is how it likes mounted with ProTi Titanium bolt to the CNC machined velocity stack from JetPrime:
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Love the little Ti adapters with the cooling rings. So cool. Excuse the Pun. Love those GP MS callipers with the nickel coat and cooling fins. Trick.

 

[BMW Alpina]

Thanks @PanigalePilot

Talking about the Ti Adapters with cooling ring (M14 to AN6 adapters), I need to plan how I am going to route the Goodridge 6AN fuel hose inside the airbox, thus I am doing some tests routing below:






Then I bought more Staubli DryBreak QuickDisconnect and Goodridge Hose End from Pegasus AutoRacing, plus some more Earl's 6AN adapters:


and some Bulkhead Nut (I had another idea that I will show later):

 

[BMW Alpina]

Next, I prepared the coolant mixture for filling my radiator:




Then since the fuel pump has been installed to the gas tank, it is time to install the Motocorse Gas Tank Cap with Motocorse Titanium Bolt Set:






Done:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Hmm.. what was next yah... ok let me see...

I am trying to figure out how to install the brake lever in combination with the larger rear master cylinder I took from my Panigale V4S because the super nice looking lever that came with Motocorse Rear Set for 1198 kit just doesn't fit right.
Since I also have the brake lever from NCR designed for 998 (but not complete part, just the lever), I am going to use it:


Initially, I am going to use some Titanium Spacers to space out the bracket for the master cylinder:


Here is the NCR lever, noticed I used the rubber toe end from different bike rear set (I forget which brand/model, but it was a good well known brand.. I just forget now):


However this configuration still not work well because that rubber toe lever is not long enough while my Motocorse rear seat was spaced far away from the frame to clear the super large Motocorse 60.5mm Titanium exhaust pipe... so I will replace the toe lever with something else...

Mean time, I am also adding the original 998 Ignition Coil. These are brand new, and I install them on the frame just to have them in case, the new Coil Stick from 1198 fail to work:


These are the brand new coil bracket:


This is how roughly it will look with Titanium Bolt from ProTi, but I am not done modifying this coil yet, so more to come:


Then I cut the spacer for the battery holder because it is too long and make the Microtec ECU hit the Titanium Oil Cap from Motocorse:


Now, after I cut the spacer, the Microtec ECU has enough clearance to the Motocorse Titanium Oil Filler Cap:


By the way, I decided I also want to install the Fuel Canister eventhough I might not fully connect it, just in case some reason I need it someday, so I decide to take out the aftermarket starter relay and just rely on the stock Ducati starter relay (and buy some extra Ducati relay in case it fail).
Because of this, I buy another brand new battery holder since the one on the left had been modified too much (some holes drilled):


Reassemble everything onto the new battery tray, including adding the larger starter battery cable kit that I bought from UK a while ago:




Add dielectric grease before installing the relays:



Connect the Regulator Cable:


Connect the ECU cable:



Connect the ECU grounding cable:


The starter relay cable:


Connect to the positive terminal of the battery:


To the terminal of the starter motor:


and more soon. much much more.

 

[BMW Alpina]

Now, time to pay attention to the Main Negative Ground Cable. Initially, I want to purchase a brand new ground cable from Ducati, but they are no longer available as new parts.
The ground cable that came with my 998 is still in very good condition, but I just feel it is not perfect if I am not able to get a brand new ground cable from Ducati... so the only other path is to MODIFIED .
I remember that I have a lot of Rockford Fosgate power cable from my days of upgrading my car stereo, so I take a look at my stash and lo and behold... I have a BRAND NEW Rockford Fosgate 4AWG ground cable already terminated in 1 end:


I routed it through the chassis and mark it with Red Sharpie where I need to cut:


I need to cut it with the exact length so it will work with my New Old Stock Streetwires Ground Terminal:


Cut it:


Open the jacket:



Slide the first part of the Streetwires Ground Terminal Plug:


Mushroom the wires, and add Dielectric Grease:


Start screwing the second part of the Streetwires ground terminal:


Voila, ready to use:


Here is how I routed the 4AWG ground wire:


The ProTi Gold Titanium Bolt that I currently use is for temporary, I am ordering a Titanium Silver ProTi bolt to make it more match with the rest of the bolt color:


Next, I need to choose whether add a resistor to prevent hyper blinking to my Rizoma LED turn signal, or replace the flasher:


I also need to find a more elegant custom way for the wiring between the generator and rectifier/regulator:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Luckily, I found a Flasher Relay that designed for LED turn signal (prevent hyper flashing without the need to add resistor) and directly compatible with the Ducati socket for the Flasher Relay:






However it is larger than Ducati original flasher relay, so I had to move it several time until I found the perfect area somewhere below the battery. In this pictures, the flasher relay still not in the latest and most ideal place to tuck it:

 

[BMW Alpina]

In the meantime, my order for several different sizes of RayChem rubber heat shrink for my wire harness modification project arrived, so I immediately use it to further protect the Rockford Fosgate ground wire where it bend near the Motocorse Exhaust Manifold:


Stay tune, things are getting more Interesting, Customized and of course MODIFIED

 

[BMW Alpina]

What next hmm..

Ok... K&N ... I spent hours on K&N website try to find any air filter (for any bikes) that meet my dimensional requirements. You see, my MS Production Carbon Air Box (with larger air intakes) does not have any provision to install air filter.
I bought the BMC air filter for the standard intake hole and it is too small to cover the hole opening, but I found this K&N Air Filter Part# HA-9916 (even the part number sounds like a 916 )
This K&N HA-9916 is for Honda Africa Twin 2016-2019 which have a 998cc engine so this is PERFECT for my application:







I look at the fit on the opening of the inlet to the MS Production AirBox:




Then DREMEL time:


Test fit again:



Time to create the bracket:




Make sure I can still install the air intake even with the K&N air filter and bracket holding it:


Then do the same thing for the second air inlet and test fit again:


Yap, they look good (technically) but will still be improved (cosmetically):

 

[SBK-SP]

I see light around the edges of the filter(s). Might be better to just use foam filter material and fab a screen to hold them securely. I’ve been running the foam/screen setup on my 2011 1198SP for years now.

 

[BMW Alpina]

I see light around the edges of the filter(s). Might be better to just use foam filter material and fab a screen to hold them securely. I’ve been running the foam/screen setup on my 2011 1198SP for years now.

Thanks @SBK-SP
My initial thought was exactly the same as yours, of using a foam filter with a stainless steel mesh screen to hold it.
I actually already purchased the foam filter and stainless steel mesh screen before I purchased the K&N air filter.
But creating a mounting to hold the stainless steel mesh might require more drilling of the airbox (to hold it evenly), so I decided to go with K&N method.

Also, the process above was actually done a few months ago, and I just don't have the time to post it here until today.
Upon finding that there are small gaps around the edges of the filters, just as your sharp eye also sees,
I decided to cut the foam filters and add them as a "gasket" between the K&N air filters and the airbox, which completely closed all the gaps. I plan to post the pictures of these in a later post, but they are perfectly sealed now
But let me just post 1 picture here for now so reader will see what I did: