DUCATI Panigale V4 25° Anniversario 916 BUILD Thread

[BMW Alpina]

Then I test fit the Motocorse Lower Triple Clamp, and oh yeah, way much nicer than the stock triple clamp :




However, the Motocorse Lower Triple Clamp does not have the hole below the shaft that allow for the front triple clamp stand to insert too, so when you want to leave your front fork to adjust the height you need to use the center ABBA stand or use the jack stand under the engine oil sump to jack it up... this is the only drawback...

Install the factory stud for steering limiter and also test fit the factory dust seal:


Ok, after eating my breakfast, I will work more on this bike today and will update soon.

 

[BMW Alpina]

Today, I started with taking out the left original switch from the handle bar. Soon this will be replaced by custom switch from Bike Sport Development, UK.

I use Ducati special tools to push the locking mechanism from the switch so I can take it out from the handle bar:


Then using a small TORX screwdriver, I take out the 2 small screws so I can expose the inner, to make it easier for me to unplug the connector:


Here is what it look inside the switch:


Connector is out:


Soon, I will connect it with this module from JetPrime (that I cut from a working JetPrime switch):


Then I tightened the 2 TORX screw again so I can store this original switch:



Next, I took out the right custom Cerakote DucaBike Throttle housing on the right side. As usual, I need to hunt the triangle-shaped screwdriver bit that I stored somewhere... Luckily I found it, but it is also annoying, not to mention the triangle design is bad design, and I keep on slipping the screwdriver bit...
So I decided to replace it once and for all with a similar diameter TORX stainless steel screw (can't find the Titanium version, believe me, I looked ). And since the TORX is just a tad longer, I add 2 stacks of Stainless Steel Washers (which also function better to spread the load more evenly)


Voila, no more weird triangle head screw, only TORX all the way :


Finally both handlebar are out, soon will be replaced by super light, super gorgeous, Melotti Racing Handle Bar:


Continue below...

 

[BMW Alpina]

Next, I focus on modifying the Cooper Solid Brake Line so I can utilize the factory routing of both the Brake Line and Front Speed Sensor.
I took out the original factory brake line maybe 2 years ago, so I totally forget how it was routed. I tried to look at the YouTube Video and Original Ducati factory service, however, somehow, no information (especially in the area where the bracket is under the radiator housing).

Thank you to @HKMP7 , who still remembers and provides me with guidance on how the factory's original routing was.

I make a mark using sharpie so I know approximately where I need to CUT this cooper solid brake line (it is too long now):


Oh, this is the plastic pinch bracket that I was talking about, where it will PINCH both the Goodridge Aramid (Kevlar) braided brake line and the speed sensor soon. Oh, unfortunately Ducati only make plastic pinch bracket, but the radiator RAD-DUCT are all carbon fiber, Ducati original parts from Superleggera V4:


First, I need to take out the left side bolt that hold the rad-duct, so I can reroute the solid cooper line/Goodridge aramid braided line combo out from the bike:


It's not easy to snake it out, but little by little I got it out:


And finally it is out:


One more look before I cut it shorter:



After I cut it shorter, I flare it with my Earl's flaring tool to DIN 3/16" size:




And the result is awesome, I compare it with my older flaring (cut), and the new one on the right:


After I deburr and chamfered using Dremel, I tested fit with the other end of the Goodridge Aramid braided hose, then I marked it with Red Sharpie for alignment:


First, I hand tight using Crow Open Wrench (need 11m and 13mm), then once they are aligned well, I torque to 15Nm using Torque Wrench:


Voila, it's ready:


I start snaking it back:


And test fit the plastic pinch bracket to make sure there is enough space since the Goodridge Aramid Braided Line is thicker than the stock factory stainless braided line:


Look at how it will be:


Start making adjustment and tie locking them to the other bracket that attached to the main frame:


Finally everything is Tie Lock and routed:


Continue on the next post below

 

[BMW Alpina]

Yap, they are now PERFECT

So now, as soon as I receive the Steering Bearing, I can install the Motocorse Lower Triple Clamp.
This brake line connection is hidden behind the lower triple clamp, that is why it took me 2 years before I can perform this correction because I was waiting for the Motocorse Lower Triple Clamp.

That is all the work for today, however, I decide to compare the length between the stock handle bar and the Oh So Gorgeous Melotti Racing GP Handle Bar:


Initially I was thinking of cutting the Melotti Racing GP Handlebar shorter to match the length of the stock Ducati handlebar, however, I realized that I cannot do this because if you see my finger pointing out the section of Melotti Racing GP Handlebar above...
That section is kinda like a section that is not usable to mount master cylinders or switches... so in the end, the usable area of the Melotti Racing GP handlebar is about the same length as the usable area on the stock Ducati handle bar, meaning, I can NOT cut Melotti racing handlebar.

That is all for this week, I hope I can start working on upgrading the stock Ohlins EC forks from this 916 25 Anniversario with the FKR cartridge and Motocorse billet lower next week so I can "TRANSPLANT" the forks to the 998

 

[BMW Alpina]

Today, I started to disassemble the original Ohlins EC Forks to upgrade with with FKR 108 Cartridge and Motocorse bottom.
This is going to be installed in the 998, but since I believe many readers of this forum might upgrade their EC Forks with FKR 108 Cartridge, I decided to post the process in this build thread:

Again here is the FKR 108 Cartridge:



Here are all the Ohlins Special Tools that I bought for this purpose:


My stock Ohlins EC forks:


Now, I have already taken out the forks from the lower triple clamp, but if you are doing this, remember to keep the Ohlins forks held by the lower triple clamp so you can unscrew the top cap easily.
In my case, I asked my two sons to hold the fork while I used the Melotti Racing Special Tools to unscrew the top cap:


Here are the top caps unscrewed:


Then, initially I thought I can use the same Melotti Racing special tools and the special Ohlins black spanner to take out the whole upper mechatronic system:



But I was wrong, turns out, I needed to unscrew the anodized blue pre-load adjuster, and to prevent any marring or scratch, I cover it with 3M electric tape.
Actually, Ducati has a special socket tools made of nylon or delrin material, however, I don't want to wait a couple more weeks to wait until special tools arrive, so I decided to just use 3M electric tape,
and they work well, no marring or scratch at all:


Below is how you use both Ohlins black special spanner and regular 32mm socket tools to unscrew the pre-load adjuster:


And the locking nut was released:


So I can take out the whole Mechatronic system:


Next, I am supposed to use this special tool to remove that nut (which is now going to the bottom and lock the top spring collar), unfortunately, this special tool is for the FKR fork which has a larger shaft diameter,
so I am almost ready to just wait and buy another Ohlins special tool with the right size ...


But the situation above does not prevent me from draining the oil:



And sliding out the gold outer tube:


And after that, I realize the central of the shaft has a threaded insert in which a long M6 screw can be screwed in.
So I end up using an M6 screw to hold the shaft while I release the locking nut:


As a result, I now can remove the spring:


Then, I still needed to remove the M6 bolt which was now stuck tight, so I used 2 locking nuts to hold the shaft :


Then I took out the M6 bolt


After that I slide out the white plastic tube that hold the bottom half of the spring (just position the fork upside down, and it will just slide/fall out):


Next insert the long Ohlins Special Tools with 4 prongs into the tube to unscrew the rest of the cartridge:


Continue below:

 

[BMW Alpina]

I tried using a socket wrench, but it is super tight and I don't have enough leverage:


So I used my Makita Impact Wrench and it just open with 1 quick click of the button:


Oh, I use the stock axle to hold the lower part of the fork bottom, on hindsight, I should use a vise:



Cartridge was out:


Compare it side by side between stock Cartridge and FKR 108 Cartridge:


Do the same to the other fork and both of them now have their cartridge removed:


And these are how the Left and Right Mechatronic assembly looks like:




Time to remove the inner tube, by holding the fork bottom on a vise (with rubber tooth lining of course), and heat it up with Makita Heat Gun. Make sure you heat it up enough, like 10 minutes to break up the Loctite on the inner lower fork bottom:


Especially, this area below:


Install the inner sleeve from Ohlins for 43mm inner tube:


and the outer pinching ring:


Then use a long breaker bar:


And voila, the inner tube was removed:




Don't forget to thoroughly clean the thread from the old Loctite, picture below shows the old Loctite residue:


I also bought Ohlins original travel marker set (those numbers are Ohlins part numbers):


Which I install to the inner tube before I screw them into the new Motocorse Billet Lower Bottom, also notice I already cleaned the thread from Loctite residue:


more picture of the travel marker:


Here are the 2 outer tubes and the stock Cartridge lightly re-screwed onto the stock bottom (the 2 outer tubes will be reused):


And here are the 2 inner tubes also ready to be reused tomorrow:


I will continue working tomorrow.

 

[BMW Alpina]

Today, I start with preparing the Motocorse Lower Fork Bottom.
I have 2 versions, one is the version I bought earlier for non-pressurized forks (without the extra tube ala FGR-300), and the second version, which I bought later after Motocorse produced the version with the pressurized forks.
Of course, I will install the version with the pressurized forks , but since my original Ohlins EC forks from the 2020 model were without the extra pressurized tube, so I need to install the screw/washer to block the pathway provided by Motocorse so it can work with my version of forks.



First, I need to PUSH the top Titanium Cover on the Pressurized Tube:


to become like this below (after press) and expose the steel clip:


Then I cover the surrounding area with 3M electric tape and 3M painters tape to protect the anodized surface while I pry out the steel clip:



After an hour of trying, I found a way, first you need to push down the steel clip using a flat screwdriver,


Then insert a needle to pry it out so then you can have the flat screwdriver to pry further:




After that, pry out even more by finger:


and voila it is out:


Next, spray lots of PTFE grease to make it easier for the Titanium cover to pop out:


Then, with a burst of air using an air gun (compressor), it came out:




Next, I need to insert the screw in that center hole to block the pathway:


Here are the screws with built-in washers:


I decided to apply medium loctite for further precaution:


Tightened to 2.7Nm:



Next, apply Rubber Grease to the O-Ring for the Titanium Cover:


Snap it back and put the clip ring back:




Continue below...

 

[BMW Alpina]

In between, I saw the travel marker for my Ohlins RVP25 WSBK forks (larger diameter of 46mm) laying around, so I decided to install them since it would be quick:

First I slip in the plastic part:



Then I slip in the Green O-Ring from the top of the fork:


And done:


Yap, they are perfect now:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Back to the Ohlins EC Forks with FKR upgrade:

First, I disassembled the FKR cartridge top parts:




The FKR cartridge is really on the next level compare to the stock Ohlins EC Cartridge, just look at the nozzle below coated in TiN, so beautifully engineered:




Next, I need to install the Inner Tube to the Motocorse fork bottom, and the first thing is to put the official Ohlins Grease onto the O-Ring:


Then insert the O-Ring into the groves deep inside Motocorse fork bottom:



Time to apply Loctite 2700 per Ohlins installation manual to the thread of the inner tube:


I can't find the Loctite 2700 in the US, so I bought them from UK, they are special and high strength:


Apply liberally to the thread:


Then use my finger to spread them evenly:


Start threading the inner tube into the Motocorse bottom:


Then after protecting the surface of the Motocorse bottom with plenty of 3M blue painter's tape, I place it on a jaw with rubber soft grip jaws with the Ohlins special tools to tightened it:


Tightened them to around 130Nm per Ohlins spec, and it was not easy but I manage by placing them lay down on the carpet and stand on the vise with my feet, while my arm tightened it:






Both Left side and Right side are done:


Note, that the left side is for compression, and the right side is for the rebound.
I wish to continue further with installing the inner cylinder tube, but it requires a 14mm hex socket (thin wall), and my 1/2" version is too large to fit inside the cylinder tube, as you can see in the picture below.


So I need to wait until my new thin-walled 3/8" drive 14mm hex socket with long extension arrives sometime early next week.
Until then, have a nice weekend everyone.

 

[PanigalePilot]

Back to the Ohlins EC Forks with FKR upgrade:

First, I disassembled the FKR cartridge top parts:
View attachment 12350

View attachment 12351

The FKR cartridge is really on the next level compare to the stock Ohlins EC Cartridge, just look at the nozzle below coated in TiN, so beautifully engineered:
View attachment 12352

View attachment 12353

Next, I need to install the Inner Tube to the Motocorse fork bottom, and the first thing is to put the official Ohlins Grease onto the O-Ring:
View attachment 12354

Then insert the O-Ring into the groves deep inside Motocorse fork bottom:
View attachment 12355


Time to apply Loctite 2700 per Ohlins installation manual to the thread of the inner tube:
View attachment 12356

I can't find the Loctite 2700 in the US, so I bought them from UK, they are special and high strength:
View attachment 12357

Apply liberally to the thread:
View attachment 12358

Then use my finger to spread them evenly:
View attachment 12359

Start threading the inner tube into the Motocorse bottom:
View attachment 12360

Then after protecting the surface of the Motocorse bottom with plenty of 3M blue painter's tape, I place it on a jaw with rubber soft grip jaws with the Ohlins special tools to tightened it:
View attachment 12361

Tightened them to around 130Nm per Ohlins spec, and it was not easy but I manage by placing them lay down on the carpet and stand on the vise with my feet, while my arm tightened it:
View attachment 12362

View attachment 12363

View attachment 12364

Both Left side and Right side are done:
View attachment 12365View attachment 12366

Note, that the left side is for compression, and the right side is for the rebound.
I wish to continue further with installing the inner cylinder tube, but it requires a 14mm hex socket (thin wall), and my 1/2" version is too large to fit inside the cylinder tube, as you can see in the picture below.
View attachment 12367

So I need to wait until my new thin-walled 3/8" drive 14mm hex socket with long extension arrives sometime early next week.
Until then, have a nice weekend everyone.

Great post H
learned a lot from that

 

[BMW Alpina]

Today, I am back with the FKR 108 Cartridge upgrade to the stock Ohlins EC forks.

The 3/8" extension and hex sockets tools is ready:


I need 14mm:



Here is why I need extensions:


The extension will go into cylinder tube assembly:



This time Ohlins specified another super rare Loctite 2400 that I had to sourced from UK:


Inserting the cylinder tube into the fork leg:


Tightened using torque wrench:


To torque of around 60Nm per Ohlins:


However, I felt a bit higher might be better since the Loctite is submerged in oil bath so I increase to around 68Nm:


Then I realized to setup the oil level, I need to have the outer tube bottom up, so I need to take out the travel marker for now:


Cleaning the inner tube so I can insert the outer tube:


Apply Ohlins Grease and Oil to the oil seal of the outer tube:



Insert the outer tube (until it bottomed all the way):




Prepare and pour 0.5 liters of Ohlins fork oil:



I felt that there were a lot of contaminant particles in the fork, and since I had a lot of Ohlins fork oil, I decided to flush with new Ohlins Oil and throw away the first 0.5 liters to make sure no contaminant.
Below are the pictures of the oil with some contaminants particles:


Once you refill with another FRESH 0.5 liters of Ohlins fork oil, you need to pump up the outer tube while covering it's top part to create vacuum:


Then once it reach it's normal operating height/gap, release the vacuum:


Continue below:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Time to work on the cartridge, first, install the Shaft Extension Tool to the Shaft of the Cartridge:


Then install the seal head tools:


I also will need the Clip tool:


The top out spring in relaxed position (initially):



Then I compressed the top out spring by pushing down on the seal head tool:


Insert Clip Tool onto the groove in the shaft expansion tool to lock the top up spring stay in compress position:



Add grease to the thread and to the O-Rings:




Insert into the fork leg:


Pump it up and down a bit to remove any air bubbles:


Remove the seal head tool and clip:



To tighten the cartridge to the mating cylinder tube at 30Nm:




Time to set up the oil level tool (basically suck the oil level depend on how deep you set up the "straw":




In this case, Ohlins recommend 200mm:


Ready with the suction pump:


Oh, you need to install the shaft extension tool back:

Continued below...

 

[BMW Alpina]

Because you need to press it down, while you suck the oil level:



Then throw away the excess oil until you reach 200mm oil level below surface:


Next, time to start inserting the Pre Load Tube back to the shaft:


Then I chose to use the 10Nm spring because the 998 where these forks will be installed is actually heavier than the Panigale V4 916 25 Anniversario:


Inserting the 10Nm spring:


Oh, make sure your spring surface with the laser marking showing the spring rate is on TOP so you can easily check if needed someday:


Inserting the spring support:


Then make sure no Pre-Load on the top cap:


Insert O-Ring to Top Cap:

Don't forget to grease the O-Ring and the Thread:




Pull up the shaft using the shaft extension tools and insert the 19mm wrench into the slot like the picture below (the 19mm Ohlins wrench actually lock into place):


And also grease the thread on the shaft.


Insert and tighten the top cap by hand first:





Protect the pre-load adjuster 14mm bolt with electric tape:


Tightened to 20Nm:




Make sure the thread on the top cap and the O-Ring has enough grease:



Pull the Outer Tube UP, then threaded to the top cap by hand:


Continue below...

 

[BMW Alpina]

Time to final tightened using special top cap tools from Ohlins to 10Nm:






Take one final picture before removing this right rebound fork from the vise grip:


Clean it up really clean with alcohol and Honda Cleaner:


Install back the travel marker ring:


Few poses before installed to the Ducati 998 :






Now, I am going to do the same thing for the Left Compression Forks

 

[PanigalePilot]

Time to final tightened using special top cap tools from Ohlins to 10Nm:
View attachment 12437

View attachment 12438

View attachment 12439

Take one final picture before removing this right rebound fork from the vise grip:
View attachment 12440

Clean it up really clean with alcohol and Honda Cleaner:
View attachment 12441

Install back the travel marker ring:
View attachment 12442

Few poses before installed to the Ducati 998 :
View attachment 12443
View attachment 12444
View attachment 12445
View attachment 12446
View attachment 12447

Now, I am going to do the same thing for the Left Compression Forks

another great post

 

[BMW Alpina]

another great post

Thanks so much @PanigalePilot

and I just finished the Left Compression Forks:











I will install them to the lower triple clamp of the 998 tomorrow, so I will continue on my 998 build thread

 

[BMW Alpina]

By the way, the Motocorse billet oil sump cover arrived:

 

[PanigalePilot]

By the way, the Motocorse billet oil sump cover arrived:
View attachment 12459
View attachment 12460
View attachment 12461
View attachment 12462

That looks very nice.

 

[BMW Alpina]

Thanks @PanigalePilot

However, I am really pissed with myself right now. I was traveling to the East Coast (for business purposes) this whole week, and I know that a package from Ducati Omaha arrived a few days ago.
I am finally able to be back home and open the package, only to realize the parts were wrong...
After looking at the invoice, I realized, it was my silly mistake typing the wrong part number (just 1 digit wrong)...

So I thought I order the full steering bearing assembly Part# 70241231A but I must somehow typed 70241241A, so what arrive is only the outer race of the bearing not the full set,... ironically, what I need is the inner race and the ball bearing since this outer race already embedded in the chassis...
I just ordered the correct part and hopefully arrive.. in ... maybe 2 weeks from now, so my plan to install the Motocorse Lower Triple Clamp with the Ohlins RVP25 this weekend need to be postponed

 

[PanigalePilot]

Thanks @PanigalePilot

However, I am really pissed with myself right now. I was traveling to the East Coast (for business purposes) this whole week, and I know that a package from Ducati Omaha arrived a few days ago.
I am finally able to be back home and open the package, only to realize the parts were wrong...
After looking at the invoice, I realized, it was my silly mistake typing the wrong part number (just 1 digit wrong)...

So I thought I order the full steering bearing assembly Part# 70241231A but I must somehow typed 70241241A, so what arrive is only the outer race of the bearing not the full set,... ironically, what I need is the inner race and the ball bearing since this outer race already embedded in the chassis...
I just ordered the correct part and hopefully arrive.. in ... maybe 2 weeks from now, so my plan to install the Motocorse Lower Triple Clamp with the Ohlins RVP25 this weekend need to be postponed
View attachment 12463

things happen
before you know it all done