It’s nice to see this coming back togetherEvery time I see this bike —> so nice
DUCATI Panigale V4 25° Anniversario 916 BUILD Thread
- Thread starter BMW Alpina
- Start date
Hi Andy,
For Ohlins, I always like their unique yellow spring color, so I prefer to keep it yellow
I was curious so I compare the Radiator Cap for Panigale Superleggera V4 and for NON V4 (V2) Superleggera, they look similar, however, of course the old version does not fit the V4 radiator, that is why I buy again 
Then late last night I work on changing the bolt on the Brembo RCS16 Corsa Corta Clutch MC to ProTi, plus I install Kohken Mechanical Clutch Switch (originally for RCS but the older NON-Corsa Corta version) so a bit of bending and adding Titanium washer were needed to "make it work"
I also add Stahlbus Bleeder:
However, I can't change the lever to the Bonamici lever because I forgot to paint the area that @Araitim machine for me (Thanks again @Araitim), so this afternoon I paint that "cut and expose bare aluminum area" with semi-gloss black paint:
Which means I got to wait 7 days before it is fully cured so no RCS16 Corsa Corta Clutch Install this weekend... well at least maybe not with the Bonamici leverl
Then late last night I work on changing the bolt on the Brembo RCS16 Corsa Corta Clutch MC to ProTi, plus I install Kohken Mechanical Clutch Switch (originally for RCS but the older NON-Corsa Corta version) so a bit of bending and adding Titanium washer were needed to "make it work"
I also add Stahlbus Bleeder:
However, I can't change the lever to the Bonamici lever because I forgot to paint the area that @Araitim machine for me (Thanks again @Araitim
), so this afternoon I paint that "cut and expose bare aluminum area" with semi-gloss black paint:Which means I got to wait 7 days before it is fully cured so no RCS16 Corsa Corta Clutch Install this weekend... well at least maybe not with the Bonamici leverl
So I’m confused, the Superleggera radiator cap will not fit the standard V4?I was curious so I compare the Radiator Cap for Panigale Superleggera V4 and for NON V4 (V2) Superleggera, they look similar, however, of course the old version does not fit the V4 radiator, that is why I buy again
View attachment 4123
Then late last night I work on changing the bolt on the Brembo RCS16 Corsa Corta Clutch MC to ProTi, plus I install Kohken Mechanical Clutch Switch (originally for RCS but the older NON-Corsa Corta version) so a bit of bending and adding Titanium washer were needed to "make it work"
View attachment 4124
I also add Stahlbus Bleeder:
View attachment 4125
However, I can't change the lever to the Bonamici lever because I forgot to paint the area that @Araitim machine for me (Thanks again @Araitim
View attachment 4126View attachment 4127
Which means I got to wait 7 days before it is fully cured so no RCS16 Corsa Corta Clutch Install this weekend... well at least maybe not with the Bonamici leverl
Hi Apuca,
The PREVIOUS generation 1299 and older Superleggera radiator cap will not fit our current V4, however, the current Superleggera V4 radiator cap fit our V4 perfectly.
I purchase an older generation Superleggera radiator cap last year without knowing about this.
craig bush
Well-known member
You think Howard isn’t already planning to replace that silver rivet?That's a pity. The gold rivet would have been on point for this build.
I know he has a can of gold paint. Just waiting to see how long he holds out.You think Howard isn’t already planning to replace that silver rivet?
BTW I also agree with Howard Ohlins fork should stay iconic yellow. Amazing how far this show piece has come. It should tour bike shows when finished.
I also bought one of those last year. Even if it did fit perfectly it was designed for lower pressure 1.2 bar vs 1.6 bar. Since these bikes run so hot anyway I definitely wasn't going to use the lower pressure V2SL cap so I sold it. They are both a work of art.I was curious so I compare the Radiator Cap for Panigale Superleggera V4 and for NON V4 (V2) Superleggera, they look similar, however, of course the old version does not fit the V4 radiator, that is why I buy again
View attachment 4123
Hi Guys,
I wasn't paying attention too much, but now you guys pointed out, hmmm where is that can of gold paint... let me find it now
I wasn't paying attention too much, but now you guys pointed out, hmmm where is that can of gold paint... let me find it now
While I'm being bad...
Wow, please kindly post the weight PeteWhile I'm being bad...
Howard sorry I don't know. I don't own them - they're beautiful but would get knocked around in my garage. One of the guys on Facebook just posted a pic and they look spectacular with his bike.
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craig bush
Well-known member
Interesting. I have two Pierobon rear stands on the way - maybe I’ll get one of those front stands.While I'm being bad...
I was inspired by the color choices that @HKMP7 choose for his rear wheel nut because it looks so beautiful in these pictures:
so I decided to buy AEM Wheel Cone Nut in "TITANIUM" color because I was assuming that HKMP7 purchase his AEM wheel cone in Titanium color since it so closely match his AEM Titanium Wheel Nut,...
However, turn out, HKMP7 purchased the "SILVER" color instead... well, my fault for assuming and not asking
And this is the how the "TITANIUM" colored AEM Wheel Cone looks like, it does look a bit bronze to me and they might send me the wrong color however, when stack together with a Titanium Nut, it looks almost Titanium now (right picture), so it might be Titanium color but ... who knows:
Oh, I forgot to mention that I also purchase 1 piece of Motocorse Titanium Wheel Nut just to compare it with my current AELLA Titanium Wheel nut:
And this is the direct side by side comparison between Motocorse and AELLA Titanium Wheel Nut:
Weight comparison:
So, the AELLA actually 5 grams lighter compare to Motocorse, if you notice, The Motocorse also have more "teeth" compare to the AELLA, plus it is a thicker design.
The AELLA is also more shiny/polished compare to the Motocorse which also shiny but not as shiny as the AELLA finishes. So far, I like the AELLA shinier finish more than the Motocorse
However, the real test is to install it on the bike and see which one looks better:
First, my current AELLA with AEM Titanium wheel cone vs Motocorse with AEM Titanium wheel cone:
Second, my current AELLA with AEM Gold wheel cone vs Motocorse with AEM Gold wheel cone
Again the same as above but slightly different angle:
Based on this, I was surprise that in the end, I like the Motocorse looks better than the shinier AELLA simply because the Motocorse really looks THICKER and more ROBUST, plus the slightly less shiny surface create that Industrial looks and less blings,
However, the shinier AELLA was able to reflect more light to the AEM Wheel Cone that it make the AEM wheel cone actually looks a bit better.
Now, I settled with Motocorse wheel nut, then time to compare which one looks better the Titanium wheel cone or the Gold wheel cone, and I think due to my Magnesium wheel color, I think the Gold AEM Wheel cone looks better (more livelier),
While on HKMP7's bike with his BLACK Marchesini Wheel, the SILVER AEM wheel cone actually looks better.
So, I guess, due to my Magnesium wheel color, I will stick with the Gold AEM Wheel Cone... however, I am still not satisfied enough, so next time I order parts, I will order a SILVER AEM Wheel Cone, just to make sure there is no lingering doubt, so this comparison is not fully over yet
Well, let me show you another angle on why I think the Motocorse Titanium Wheel Nut looks better than AELLA version, see how the Motocorse design is thicker and just looks that it was machined slightly better. Also notice that I always have the Motocorse Logo shows up on every picture,
well that is because they laser marked those logos on FOUR sides of the Motocorse Titanium Wheel Nut, so no matter how you position your wheel, the Motocorse logo will always be visible, which somewhat important too for ... ahem... "branding coordinated" purposes
CONTINUE BELOW
so I decided to buy AEM Wheel Cone Nut in "TITANIUM" color because I was assuming that HKMP7 purchase his AEM wheel cone in Titanium color since it so closely match his AEM Titanium Wheel Nut,...
However, turn out, HKMP7 purchased the "SILVER" color instead... well, my fault for assuming and not asking
And this is the how the "TITANIUM" colored AEM Wheel Cone looks like, it does look a bit bronze to me and they might send me the wrong color however, when stack together with a Titanium Nut, it looks almost Titanium now (right picture), so it might be Titanium color but ... who knows
:Oh, I forgot to mention that I also purchase 1 piece of Motocorse Titanium Wheel Nut just to compare it with my current AELLA Titanium Wheel nut:
And this is the direct side by side comparison between Motocorse and AELLA Titanium Wheel Nut:
Weight comparison:
So, the AELLA actually 5 grams lighter compare to Motocorse, if you notice, The Motocorse also have more "teeth" compare to the AELLA, plus it is a thicker design.
The AELLA is also more shiny/polished compare to the Motocorse which also shiny but not as shiny as the AELLA finishes. So far, I like the AELLA shinier finish more than the Motocorse
However, the real test is to install it on the bike and see which one looks better:
First, my current AELLA with AEM Titanium wheel cone vs Motocorse with AEM Titanium wheel cone:
Second, my current AELLA with AEM Gold wheel cone vs Motocorse with AEM Gold wheel cone
Again the same as above but slightly different angle:
Based on this, I was surprise that in the end, I like the Motocorse looks better than the shinier AELLA simply because the Motocorse really looks THICKER and more ROBUST, plus the slightly less shiny surface create that Industrial looks and less blings,
However, the shinier AELLA was able to reflect more light to the AEM Wheel Cone that it make the AEM wheel cone actually looks a bit better.
Now, I settled with Motocorse wheel nut, then time to compare which one looks better the Titanium wheel cone or the Gold wheel cone, and I think due to my Magnesium wheel color, I think the Gold AEM Wheel cone looks better (more livelier),
While on HKMP7's bike with his BLACK Marchesini Wheel, the SILVER AEM wheel cone actually looks better.
So, I guess, due to my Magnesium wheel color, I will stick with the Gold AEM Wheel Cone... however, I am still not satisfied enough, so next time I order parts, I will order a SILVER AEM Wheel Cone, just to make sure there is no lingering doubt, so this comparison is not fully over yet
Well, let me show you another angle on why I think the Motocorse Titanium Wheel Nut looks better than AELLA version, see how the Motocorse design is thicker and just looks that it was machined slightly better. Also notice that I always have the Motocorse Logo shows up on every picture,
well that is because they laser marked those logos on FOUR sides of the Motocorse Titanium Wheel Nut, so no matter how you position your wheel, the Motocorse logo will always be visible, which somewhat important too for ... ahem... "branding coordinated" purposes
CONTINUE BELOW
Last, I want to make sure the Motocorse wheel nut also looks good for the Sprocket side since I only buy 1 piece of Motocorse Titanium Wheel Nut so I will need to buy 1 more piece for the sprocket side later:
Left picture is AELLA, Right picture is Motocorse and again the Motocorse wheel nut with it's rounded hex corner just looks more well machined....
Don't get me wrong, the AELLA Titanium Wheel Nut is very well made, highly polish shiny finish, lighter and I did not have any complain about it ... until I compare it side by side with the Motocorse version...
So I guess, I still need to buy One More Motocorse Titanium Wheel Nut and of course the SILVER AEM wheel cone now
Left picture is AELLA, Right picture is Motocorse and again the Motocorse wheel nut with it's rounded hex corner just looks more well machined....
Don't get me wrong, the AELLA Titanium Wheel Nut is very well made, highly polish shiny finish, lighter and I did not have any complain about it ... until I compare it side by side with the Motocorse version...
So I guess, I still need to buy One More Motocorse Titanium Wheel Nut and of course the SILVER AEM wheel cone now
MaverickiB
Well-known member
I know you already got a pretty sprocket on there, but have you see ceracarbon sprockets? Weight of aluminum with life of steel, and they look great.
Hello MaverickiB,
Yes, I saw ceracarbon sprockets before, it just that,
First of all, I like the looks of metal material more for mechanical and moving things like sprocket or gear, plus the Sitta quick change system not only has the right gradation of colors for me, it also has that uniquely shape mechanism for the quick change.
Second, from the image below, it looks like it's basically an aluminum machined sprocket but with a bonded layer of carbon fiber on top of it (based on the sentenced "reinforced with carbon fiber".
I don't see how those thin carbon fiber layers can add stiffness to an aluminum sprocket while reducing weight. Because even light carbon fiber added weight.
Plus, why don't just make holes on the aluminum to reduce the weight while still maintaining rigidity?
Also, for that carbon fiber layer to add stiffness (in the direction of the spinning sprocket), it need to be so powerfully bonded (even FUSED) to the aluminum with enough contact area between the carbon fiber and the aluminum. and I just don't see how they can bonded those aluminum and carbon fiber to fuse together.
I mean, yes, you can glue them but will the glue have the same rigidity as the carbon fiber or the aluminum? if not it will flex and best thing is the two part will flex separately, worse case is the 2 separate layers will separate.
Another question is how about the area surrounding the outer circumference of the carbon fiber with the inner circumference right before the sprocket teeth?
How they bond the 2 different material there? In fact, I can see small gaps between the outer most carbon fiber circumference with the inner circumference right before the sprocket teeth. , which mean they are not permanently fused or bonded together. So if they are not permanently fused/bonded, how it add rigidity to this area where it have to withstand the most force from the chain?
The problem with thin layer of carbon fiber (or carbon fiber in general) are they only stiff in the direction of the layer but weak in the other directions.
Then about those ceramic coated teeth,... I don't think any coating will be able to withstand the friction generated between the teeth and sprocket and will wear out very fast exposing the bare aluminum below it.
So I really doubt about their claim on how it is 3x more durable than aluminum (if the aluminum in comparison is the same 7075-T6).
If they want to prove it, they need to be more specific, like showing a real test where when the sprocket were run for certain speed/RPM, for certain length of time, with a brake system simulating the weight effect of a bike, and show how much longer it last (until it need to be replaced) compare to a standard non coated 7075-T6 aluminum sprocket.
(or just run the bike with ceracarbon sprocket and later with a regular aluminum sprocket on a same dyno for the same period of time at the same speed for a controlled test)
It is very fuzzy on how they claim the 3x more durable than aluminum. I mean if they tested at only certain rpm/speed, and for short period of time without simulating the weight, and the ceramic coating still there (because it was not tested hard and long enough), then yes the bare aluminum will wear faster.
Last, I went to their website, and I notice there is no mentioning of this ceracarbon sprocket anywhere (anymore) in their website, and the latest catalog they have to download was from 2016: https://www.ceracarbon.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/CeraCarbon-CeraDure_engels.pdf
On their website they only show their carbon fiber forks tube replacement for their ceracarbon line of product on which I believe the advantage are obvious.
However for sprocket, their current website only shows their Ceradure line of sprocket which is an aluminum sprocket without any carbon fiber layer (but with lot of machined holes to reduce the weight) and they add their ceramic coating.
In summary, I don't think their Ceracarbon ceramic sprocket really perform as their claim or have meaningful technical advantage, otherwise, they would be a big company by now selling a lot of sprocket to race team and individuals.
or we will see a lot of other company selling similarly design sprocket (with carbon fiber reinforcement) because those are not patented and carbon fiber layers like that is not expensive to made.
Suddenly I want to know more/learn on what / how the structure behind those carbon fiber layer (the skeleton), and there are more pictures available in their facebook page: CeraCarbon Racing
Although it still it doesn't have any information, explaining how the structure and the bonding between the aluminum and carbon fiber material.
From the larger and clearer picture below, my best guess is they have some kind of anchoring coming from the inner circumference of the inner teeth and also base skeleton underneath those carbon fiber to tie the center aluminum and the teeth rings together.
Also, those carbon fiber look to be pre-made outside the skeleton and then bonded using resin from two sides which could explain how it was assembled together.
I wish they show the diagram/skeleton underneath the carbon fiber just to illustrate better (and convince more user) because if they are selling their product base on superior engineering, it will be helpful to show how it looks like inside.
If they worry people will copy it, well, if people really want to know, they can just buy a sprocket then cut away those carbon fiber to reveal how it was bonded and the structure below it.
So I can see (by guessing) on how it is technically possible to get lighter weight (with carbon fiber as reinforcing material) using this method, but I am still skeptical on their claim about 3x more durability with ceramic coating the teeth area.
Just found another picture, and this one actually shows traces of resin/glue/bonding agent
Although it still it doesn't have any information, explaining how the structure and the bonding between the aluminum and carbon fiber material.
From the larger and clearer picture below, my best guess is they have some kind of anchoring coming from the inner circumference of the inner teeth and also base skeleton underneath those carbon fiber to tie the center aluminum and the teeth rings together.
Also, those carbon fiber look to be pre-made outside the skeleton and then bonded using resin from two sides which could explain how it was assembled together.
I wish they show the diagram/skeleton underneath the carbon fiber just to illustrate better (and convince more user) because if they are selling their product base on superior engineering, it will be helpful to show how it looks like inside.
If they worry people will copy it, well, if people really want to know, they can just buy a sprocket then cut away those carbon fiber to reveal how it was bonded and the structure below it.
So I can see (by guessing) on how it is technically possible to get lighter weight (with carbon fiber as reinforcing material) using this method, but I am still skeptical on their claim about 3x more durability with ceramic coating the teeth area.
Just found another picture, and this one actually shows traces of resin/glue/bonding agent
craig bush
Well-known member
I’m no subject matter expert, but I have seen that carbon fiber bonding in other applications, specifically in aftermarket automotive wheels. I exchanged emails with the founder of Litespeed Racing regarding possible purchase for my big turbo Toyota Supra. He said:
“Hello Craig, please see the below testing done by a 3rd party, that is not affiliated with LitespeedRacing. In their testing, they found almost 500% increase in strength by bonding 3 layers of carbon fiber the an aluminium bar. The bar that they used for testing is a good representation of the effects of adding carbon fiber to the barrel of a wheel, as the average forged wheel has a barrel thickness of 4mm, and the aluminium bar they tested was very similar in thickness.”
He included this image:
“Hello Craig, please see the below testing done by a 3rd party, that is not affiliated with LitespeedRacing. In their testing, they found almost 500% increase in strength by bonding 3 layers of carbon fiber the an aluminium bar. The bar that they used for testing is a good representation of the effects of adding carbon fiber to the barrel of a wheel, as the average forged wheel has a barrel thickness of 4mm, and the aluminium bar they tested was very similar in thickness.”
He included this image: