DUCATI Panigale V4 25° Anniversario 916 BUILD Thread

MaverickiB

Active member
It's okay, I am also way, way over budget on my V4 build, haha. Pretty sure I've spent more than I originally paid for it in accessories, replacement parts, fluids, and tires. It has put a lifetime's worth of smiles on my face crammed into just a few years, so totally worth it.
 

BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
Long time ago I stopped adding up the cost. Spreading over time helps. (y):)
Hi PanigalePilot,
Yes, that is a good habit to spread the cost, until someone here in this forum posted a "new" modification that make your eyes open wide and said in your heart, I want that too, like right here right now :ROFLMAO:


It's okay, I am also way, way over budget on my V4 build, haha. Pretty sure I've spent more than I originally paid for it in accessories, replacement parts, fluids, and tires. It has put a lifetime's worth of smiles on my face crammed into just a few years, so totally worth it.
Hi MaverickiB,
Yes, that smile when you watch and happy with your custom creations, the fruit of labor from your own hand (and wallet) is priceless 😌🤩

Like right now, I am smiling (on my face and in my heart) after I install my AIS cover block plate (another information I learn from and Thanks to our creative forum member @Jrkk ).
So first I took out the whole entire water radiator assembly again, and take out the old plastic AIS plate, oh for the front cylinder, not only you have to take out the whole front water radiator assembly, you also need to loosen the LEFT front cylinder coil so you can spin it a little allowing you to pull the hose and stock AIS plate away.

IMG_2112.JPGIMG_2113.JPG

Here are the pictures of the whole front and rear AIS stock system:
IMG_2116.JPGIMG_2115.JPG

Then install the NEW AIS block plate, and use a longer bolt than the one came with the package from Smart Moto (as @Jrkk pointed out) to avoid stripping the thread. I am already purchase a longer ProTi Titanium Bolt for my stock AIS plate so I am ok.
Then use Loctite Medium Threadlocker and tighten to 6Nm. Then I took these pictures of the front AIS block plate and SMILE and HAPPY with the looks 😁
IMG_2117.JPGIMG_2120.JPG
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After that I do the same to the REAR Cylinder:
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Araitim

MASTER Builder
Very nice! I like the red on the plates.

I recently did a AIS delete too. I didn't really feel much of a difference in performance but the sparkplugs seem to have less carbon build up on them for some reason. It was a pain to do. Most of the bolts were frozen in place so I had to get creative on getting them out, I had to pull the entire exhaust , pull the air box and crank case breather (which also had a frozen bolt). I guess I shouldn't be surprised about the bolts as it is my daily driver hyper 821 20210529_190853.jpg
 

BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
Very nice! I like the red on the plates.

I recently did a AIS delete too. I didn't really feel much of a difference in performance but the sparkplugs seem to have less carbon build up on them for some reason. It was a pain to do. Most of the bolts were frozen in place so I had to get creative on getting them out, I had to pull the entire exhaust , pull the air box and crank case breather (which also had a frozen bolt). I guess I shouldn't be surprised about the bolts as it is my daily driver hyper 821 View attachment 4466
Tnanks Araitim, :D
Wow, your AIS Plate is so close to the exhaust manifold, is it maybe the reason why all the bolts are seized, due to repeated heat cycles?
I agree that I don't think the performance will differ much unless you are doing a retune and taking feedback to tune from the O2/Lambda sensor... :D
 

Araitim

MASTER Builder
Tnanks Araitim, :D
Wow, your AIS Plate is so close to the exhaust manifold, is it maybe the reason why all the bolts are seized, due to repeated heat cycles?
I agree that I don't think the performance will differ much unless you are doing a retune and taking feedback to tune from the O2/Lambda sensor... :D
It could be the heat cycling that caused the issue. It won't happen again as I used thread sealer and that seems to not only work to keep them tight but alos keeps threads from corroding.

I was justifying the AIS delete thinking that the O2/lambda sensors weren't getting true readings with the system in place which might throw off the Rapidbike tuner ...but then again that might already be factored in with the system. Either way it's less clutter and now when I weld on the wide band bungs I should get more true readings.
 

BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
Memorial Weekend update 👨‍✈️🇺🇸:

I already purchased and installed a different version or @Peter Lieb carbon fiber belly pan before for my stock shape Akrapovic from 916 version, and I love it so much so I purchased another version about 3 months ago which designed for the Akrapovic Slip-On exhaust, however it is PERFECT for the SC-Project WSBK exhaust too :cool:
and I finally have time to install them:

First this is the 916 version of the lower fairing for either the Full System or Slip-On Akrapovic (no cat converter), not that it does not come with any of the heat shielding (I am talking about the black carpet covered heat shielding for the upper painted parts of the lower fairings.
The pins are there and ready, you just need to buy the heat shielding and use a locking washers, if you scroll further down below you will notice the BLACK CARPET covered heat shielding that I am talking about installed by me.
IMG_2134.JPGIMG_2133.JPG
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But of course, can't stay stock with the lower plastic 🤪
Here how it looks after I installed @Peter Lieb Carbon Fiber Belly Pan with ProTi Titanium Bolts in Gold color for maximum contrast 🥳

IMG_2142.JPGIMG_2145.JPG

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Now, Peter ship me a complete Heat Shield sticker kit, I knew because I took a picture of it when it just arrive back in February, picture below:
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But somehow, I could not find it anywhere, I might had accidentally throw it away since it was package on the back of that cartoon sheet, or, I might accidentally use that cartoon sheet when I ship out some item...
Anyway, no worries, I use a combination of Ducati factory original heat shield with the Zircotec Zircoflex Gold Heat Shield , and I am not done yet, since I need to order a few more heat shield from Ducati Omaha, but for the time being here is how the heat shielding looks like:
IMG_2151.JPGIMG_2149.JPG

I also have more customization ala DUCATImodified to this lower belly pan, so STAY TUNE 😉🤩
 

BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
TGIF is FRIDAY 🥳 🥳 🥳:

So, I received several packages and here are they:


First a 3mm thickness M10 Aluminum Spacers... but why??? 🧐
IMG_2158.JPG

Here is why 🤓:

I have 4 different TITANIUM Banjo Bolts with 4 different length:


The shortest one is ProTi 19mm, the gold one is single banjo ProTi 21mm, the Hex Head with bluish color is a German made Hex head 23mm and last is DOUBLE Banjo ProTi 29mm... ok but why? 🤪
IMG_2159.JPGIMG_2160.JPG

Here is really why:
If you are using the banjo style Staubli, you will see that the 19mm single banjo from ProTi is way too short, while the 21mm single banjo from ProTi is really barely have enough thread to withstand the tightening torque. Also notice that they are all using Ducati original factory 1mm (super thin) cooper washer:
IMG_2161.JPGIMG_2162.JPG

Then the German Titanium bolt (also using 1mm super thin) cooper washer from Ducati have enough thread length, but I just don't like the look of conventional hex head when the rest of the rear Brembo calipers all have torx head from ProTi.
So following DUCATImodified style guiding principle 🤣, I decided to add a 3mm aluminum spacer plus the thicker normal cooper washer (1.5mm thickness each) and use the ProTi DOUBLE Banjo bolts (right picture below).
The reason why I need to use the thicker 1.5mm cooper washer is because otherwise, the thread is too long and you won't be able to screw the bolt fully into the Rear Brembo Billet Caliper (I test them of course 🤓),
so now it has the PERFECT all ProTi TORX head looks, with the correct thread length for full grip and of course that aluminum spacer can be painted anodized red to match the Staublis... you know like only in DUCATImodified 😉, right "doc" ? hahahahahahahahahahaha

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Next is the Samco Billet hose joiner just arrived from UK and I will install it and update asap:
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This billet hose joiner from Samco looks so gorgeous and very light too, so I guess having too short of the Samco hose is a blessing in disguise (I check the Superleggera V4 Carbon Fiber radiator frame/shroud and it has the same dimension as the original plastic Ducati radiator frame/shroud, meaning Samco just cut my hose too short... oh well, I guess it will looks nicer anyway now) 😎
 

MaverickiB

Active member
I still can't help but think that hose would have fit in its original length. It looks like yours has tons of breathing room between it and the frame. On mine, the OEM and the Samco hoses were right up against it and needed a bit of mechanical agitation to get to where they needed to go.

But I guess as long as the fairings still fit, it's neither here nor there. Looks good regardless, though I'm surprised you didn't anodize the extension 😂
 

BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
I still can't help but think that hose would have fit in its original length. It looks like yours has tons of breathing room between it and the frame. On mine, the OEM and the Samco hoses were right up against it and needed a bit of mechanical agitation to get to where they needed to go.

But I guess as long as the fairings still fit, it's neither here nor there. Looks good regardless, though I'm surprised you didn't anodize the extension 😂
It now looks like the Samco hose had a lot of room due to the Billet Hose joiner adding about 2 inches of extra length, however, the Samco hose really did not have enough length unless, if I took out the whole hose already attached to the thermostat and move it (steal) about 5mm here and there, but that mean less contact between the hose to the nipple on the thermostat...

I was considering to paint it red anodized to match the thermostat, but, I realize, it might have some vibration in this area that could easily scratch the paint (since this is not really anodized but red paint), and it will not look good with scratches on it. Also, high chance of scratch from trying to push the hose into this billet Samco hose joiner.

Plus, that WHITE Samco Sport Logo will look a bit off with the red anodize paint on top of it (unlike a dark laser marking),
And I really like the way the "SAMCO Sport" White Logo looks 🤩 😎so because all the above, I decided the original aluminum anodize finish is the best for this application ;)
 

BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
Sunday evening update 😊:

I spent a lot of the day just relaxing because it was a hectic week in office last week, but I managed to do one thing for today...
So the Motocorse frame plug kit include the rear subframe bolt and plug, but since I installed the Peter Lieb rear subframe carbon cover, I cannot insert the frame plug because the Peter Lieb holes opening was designed fro the stock bolt with smaller head diameter. So I have to enlarge the opening.

Here are the pictures to show you how the Motocorse frame plug just can't fit:
IMG_2179.JPGIMG_2180.JPG

So first, cover the area surrounding the hole with 3M painter's tape to avoid scratch from the runaway dremel bits:
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Then grind away:
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Until it fit:
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Then I coated the surface of the carbon fiber where I grind with Polymer Resin for carbon fiber to prevent any moisture absorbtion since the original coating was peeled by the grinding. This moisture absorption could cause the carbon fiber to DELAMINATE and we don't want that 🤓.
IMG_2187.JPG

Next week, I plan to paint the aluminum surface surround the holes with semi gloss black paint for maximum contrast between the Gold Motocorse frame plug with the surrounding matte black carbon fiber, so no silver aluminum color in between, but I want to wait until next week so the polymer resin had a chance to dry out...
(well maybe tomorrow if I have time, but for sure I will do it by next week, in the meantime, well HELLO GORGEOUS 😍😘🥰:

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Pete T

Moderator
Staff member
Runaway Dremel 😂 - don't know whether to laugh or cry, I know exactly what you mean. When I sealed the carbon on my little project (modded DP case cover to allow for left side Aella engine slider) I used JB Weld Plastic Bonder - it's a convenient epoxy resin product that is suited to carbon fibre and available in my local auto shop. Although, I think like all epoxies, it dries to a gloss finish it has the benefit of being black in colour. Just apply sparingly where needed with a tiny modellers' paint brush.

Howard, when you paint metal parts or frame surfaces is there any prep required? Any undercoat? Sanding?

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BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
Hello Pete,
I used this paint:

Dupli-Color MC200 Red Metal Cast Anodized Color - 11 oz.

The only preparation I did was, polished the surface because if you don't polish the surface, the end result is not as shiny, so the more polished your based surfaced it, the more shiny it will become and the more it looks like a real anodized red.
Now, Duplic-Color recommend to use their own silver based color, if the base metal color is not silver because, the it won't look like anodized red if the color below it is not silver.

This is the based color that I used in case the metal below is not silver color:
Dupli-Color EMC100007 Ground Coat Metal Cast Anodized Color - 11 ounce
 

BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
Many small parts needed for heat shielding of the Ilmberger Carbon Upper Fairing Vents and Peter Lieb Carbon Lower Belly Pan just arrived from Ducati Omaha, so this will be heat shielding weekend for me 😁

IMG_2198.JPG
 

BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
Mid Saturday update 😊,
I just remember that I better start with painting first,...

so, when I install the Motocorse Frame Plug for the upper rear subframe bolts holes, at the edge, you can see a thin stripe of shiny aluminum silver color (from the subframe holes itself), and this is kinda distracting for the contrast since the thin stripe is not full around the holes but only on some area, so I need to paint that area matte black, so here are the steps:

Here is the silver shiny area that I am talking about:
IMG_2202.JPG


Use 3M blue painters tape to cover the area that don't want to be painted on both the left and right sides:
IMG_2199.JPGIMG_2203.JPG

Paint them matte black:
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Then here is the result (well some area is not dry yet, but when they dried, they will be matte black in color:
IMG_2201.JPG
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BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
Ok, so this is a HOT Sunday here in Silicon Valley, and no more appropriate project than heat shielding project 😅

First, I used the original Ducati heat shield as a template, then I had to modify it a bit because the original plastic belly pan from Ducati have slightly different shape/size holes then the Peter Lieb Carbon Fiber Belly Pan:

IMG_2207.JPGIMG_2210.JPG

Another use of the original Ducati Heat Shield as template on the Zircotec Zircoflex Gold Heat Shield:
IMG_2208.JPGIMG_2209.JPG

This is Before and After for the right side belly pan:
IMG_2213.JPGIMG_2218.JPG

And this is for the left side belly pan (no before picture, just after), and I am pretty sure it is well protected 😉 :
IMG_2215.JPG

Next, heat shield the Ilmberger Carbon Fiber Side Fairing Vents, on which I am using the Original Ducati heatshielding (with the black carpet surface) just like the original.
However, the original plastic Ducati side fairing vents have some plastic stud to lock this heatshields, but the Ilmberger Carbon Fiber version does not have it, so I have to add EPOXY as adhesive, and I am pretty sure it will stay and hold it for a very long time 😌:


Left side, Ilmberger without any heatshielding, right side original factory plastic vents panel with a lot of heat shielding:
IMG_2219.JPG

Next, the Ducati heatshielding does have some double tapes but of course not enough so I add the Epoxy:
IMG_2220.JPGIMG_2221.JPG


Then I applied it and hold it with 3M painters tape until the Epoxy dried:
IMG_2223.JPGIMG_2228.JPG

By the way,
the original plastic panel also come with one clip to hold the wiring, so I purchase that clip and attached it to the Ilmberger Carbon Fiber Side Vents panel:
IMG_2227.JPG

The original plastic panel also came with some clear plastic film protector (like a clear bra material):
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So I install it too:
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That is what I did this Sunday, (while watching TV with my family), so it is a relaxing weeekend...
Now, I need more ProTi bolts to arrived before I can continue so hopefully they will arrive this week and just in time for next weekend, but if not, then progress will be delayed a bit... 😎
 

BMW Alpina

FOUNDING Member & Administrator
Staff member
Oh wait,
I also tightened all the ProTi bolts that hold the lower belly pan to 2.5nm, add Loctite to it, and while doing it, Align the "ProTI" lasermarking on the bolts so it always face in the right direction, you know, every details count 🧐🤓🤩:
IMG_2216.JPGIMG_2217.JPG
 
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