Grab yourself some popcorn this might take a while!

[topolino]

So with all the wiring complete inside the undertray, the next headache was shoehorning in all the wiring in the tail compartment for the GPS, DDA and then routeing the separate loom section for the rear number plate light and indicators, as well as the Optimate charging lead. The loom splits again at the rear, to the rear light and diagnostics port, so those need to be routed under the undertail closing panel and are relatively easy to accommodate in the space available, as these are located outside the tail compartment.

Here's the undertray wiring completed. The loose connector goes to the fuel tank pump when fitted. I added spiral wrap to the DES wiring, so that it cannot fret against the carbon aperture in the undertray potentially damaging the wiring.









I might change out the spiral wrap for a black version before I call it done and fit the fuel tank, so that it is not so "in your face".

 

[topolino]

Some further progress today, fitting the tail compartment, tail end wiring, rear light and undertail carbon panel.

Here's the tail compartment fitted to the rear subframe, using a combination of M8 Pro Bolt stainless flanged head hex bolts and nut, torqued to 22Nm. The cable to the right of the image is the seat pad lock release cable. Possibly one of my least favourite jobs, is connecting it to the lock actuating arm and spring which is a really fiddly process in little to no space.





Next job required tidying up the rear loom that splits three ways, the first section going to the rear light and diagnostics port. The second to the GPS and DDA unit and the third to the rear indicators and number plate light.

Here's the GPS and DDA unit installed, secured using 2 x Pro Bolt M8 bolts, torqued to 18Nm.





Rear light and carbon undertail panel installed. You can just see the seat lock mechanism to the left of the image. Fuel tank is now ready to be installed.



Here's the bike as of this evening.

 

[topolino]

Moving onto the front loom now. First off I had to assemble the clips ons, which have been Cerakoted "Glacier Black" along with the clevis pins in "Glacier Silver". An additional 3mm hole was drilled on the underside of the bars, to allow routeing of the bar end indicator wiring. I will come to that later.



With the clips on fitted along with the switches and master cylinders, I decided to replace the stock bleed nipples with stainless ones from Pro Bolt. These are not yet torqued to spec until I bleed the hydraulic system.



Also changed out the ugly OEM banjo bolts to each master cylinder with new stainless ones from Racebolt.



Here are the clip-ons installed, along with the handlebar switches, remote adjuster, master cylinders & bleed nipples. Note that the master cylinder OEM bolts are due to be replaced, so are only on the bike temporarily.

Not yet torqued to spec Pro Bolt M8 x 20mm bolts used in each clip on.









Awaiting some tygon tubing for the reservoirs and a few other bits and bobs to arrive, plus some other special parts. This is the view from the front.

 

[topolino]

So as I wait for some fairly major parts to arrive, I managed to finish off a few little jobs today, the first of these being the cooling system and this the last pipe in the SAMCO kit. The diameter is too large to use the stock wire clips so I used JCS stainless steel 9.5-12 clips instead.



CNC Racing billet expansion tank cap



De-pinned the connector for the oil pressure sensor, in order to fit this "Amp Tyco" rubber gaiter. With this done, all the RHS lower wiring is now complete.



Took the opportunity to fit the newly clear coated clutch cover. Torqued to 5Nm.



Hopefully I should get around to fitting the fuel tank in the next couple of days, whilst I also tackle wiring up the bar end indicators and the rest of the front loom. Unfortunately I am waiting on some parts to allow me to fit the front wheel which means I can then remove the front paddock stand, as I need to be able to move the steering from lock to lock to check cable routeing and that there is enough free play and no snagging.

 

[topolino]

Not much opportunity to work on the bike today, other than fitting a "Throttle Spacers" kit, which removes any slop and makes a noticeable difference. I fitted one on the last bike and was very pleased with it.



I did at least receive a few more parts, so hope to have the tank on tomorrow evening.

 

[topolino]

The custom bracket to allow me to use the Evotech tail tidy with the Termignoni system, is currently tasked to a local engineering company, who have made one-off parts for me before. It might be that they opt to produce a new exhaust bracket (similar to the one I designed, albeit as a dimensional sketch) that attaches directly to the tail tidy or modify the design of the tail tidy itself (which means incorporating the bracket for the exhaust directly into it), either as a bolt on element or machining completely new tail tidy halves from billet using CAD, where the bracket is integral.

Currently only Rizoma make a tail tidy that is designed to work with the D200 exhaust system, but unlike the Evotech version, it is much larger and the wiring is exposed to the indicators, so it is not as neat and compact a solution. Deciding to stick with Evotech, has made the job a lot more complicated but I think it will be worth the effort.

 

[topolino]

Little bit more done today as still waiting on more parts. Fitted the MotoGadget bar end indicators which is a very fiddly job, as you have to thread the wires to each indicator through the handlebars and out through the 3mm hole I pre-drilled under the bars, then I bought some 3mm sleeving to protect the wires and routed them over the air intake duct. They will sit in the void under the front subframe so that there is enough slack in the wires when you turn the handlebars but I'll check this properly once the front wheel is back on.





Here's the wiring to the indicators, which will largely be hidden by the front subframe. Lots more to tidy up, but it is getting there. I've got to solder on the pigtail connectors so that they'll connect directly to the OEM plugs on the front loom, but that will have to wait until they arrive.

 

[topolino]

Got to hope that tube of Parabond 600 I bought is still useable as I've a couple of Lieb Speed parts to fix back on the bike. Firstly the seat pad cover which, as with the subframe covers, I have prepped with some heat reflective foil tape onto which the sealant is applied before bonding the carbon cover on. There are all carbon versions but I found they flext too much when trying to lock them in position on the bike, so this option is a better solution IMHO.

 

[topolino]

Had an hour to spare so fitted a few more parts.

Pro Bolt perch bolts M6 x 25mm, torqued to 10Nm.





Last few of the titanium fasteners from RaceTi. This time the subframe cover bolts, M5 x 12mm. Torqued to 2.8Nm.



Fitted a 21mm grommet in the Termignoni undertray.



Next up was the fuel tank...

Again RaceTi bolts. The front ones are M5 x 30mm, torqued to 6Nm



Then the rear two bolts. M5 x 10mm. Again torqued to 6Nm.





Next the seat bracket (which I had Cerakoted "Glacier black") fixed in place with 4 x Pro Bolt M6 x 10mm bolts, torqued to 8Nm and ACCU stainless steel M6 washers.





Next the two tank lines (formerly the one on the left would have gone to the now defunct EVAP canister and the right one was the fuel overflow), so the Y-join allows you to run a single line to the drain point under the bike. Secured in place with two new zinc plated clips.



Last job was to connect the fuel pipe. I discarded the OEM clip as it's made of swiss cheese and prone to fail, so I used a JCS 9.5-12 stainless steel jubilee clip. Tightened by hand, not too tight as the fuel delivery barb is only plastic, so gently does it.



And here's the tank finally back in place on the bike.

 

[topolino]

A few little additions today. Starting with the reservoir bracket bolts. Pro Bolt M6 x 10mm and ACCU stainless steel M6 washers, torqued to 8.5Nm



As you may have already spied, I also fitted the new Tygon tubing along with zinc plated clips, on both clutch and brake master cylinders



Last up were the Desmoworld billet reservoir bolts.

 

[yecats]

Fantastic build again, really liking the Cerakoted Glacier black bits

 

[topolino]

So tonight I have been working on the pigtails for the bar end indicators and also the front subframe. Managed to connect the pigtails to the indicator wiring, which is no mean feat as the gauge of the wiring is soooo small and once soldered, I heat shrank the connections and wrapped the whole lot in Tesla tape for extra security.



Next job was to replace all the harware holding the Bosch IMU to the front subframe using a combination of M5 stainless steel flanged and plain nuts from ACCU as well as M5 flanged head bolts from Pro Bolt. Torques range from 1-3Nm







The instrument panel was next, using ACCU stainless steel M5 flanged nuts and serrated washers.







Wtih that secured, I moved on to the Ilmberger carbon instrument cover. The centre section is the only carbon element, the side sections are OEM (cut away from the original plastic one piece part) as I have found in the past that the carbon side pieces feature a captive nut that has a tendency to break. I'll upload some pictures of the parts fitted tomorrow.

I also have to prepare the subframe to fit these carbon front subframe panels from Lieb Speed





As I had anticipated I also swapped out the white spiral wrap on the rear DES wiring for black, as it is much less intrusive on the eye.

 

[topolino]

Fitted the central carbon fibre Ilmberger instrument cover to the front subframe. As mentioned previously, the two carbon side pieces they supply, come with a captive nut for the inner fairing covers (you can see where they are located in the picture below on the OEM part), however these have a habit of breaking, so I tend to use the OEM plastic ones which means cutting them off the central section of the stock part with a dremel, then shaping them to suit.

Here's the left hand one, cut and sanded ready to fit. The central part will get tossed in the bin.



And here are the three pieces fitted to the front subframe.



OEM bolts torqued to 3Nm and a dab of Loctite 243.





Having looked at the amount of slack available in the pigtail leads for the indicators, I decided I could still mount the front subframe and be certain of enough free play in them, when I eventually come to move the steering from lock to lock (after the new hardware for the front wheel arrives next week).

Here it is fitted using 4 x Pro Bolt M6 x 20mm flanged hex nuts and ACCU M6 stainless washers, torqued to 10Nm





Next job is to fit the headlight, sort out the last of the wiring on the bike and fit the new later version bluetooth DMS module, since the previous one is not compatible with 2022MY bikes onwards. (Speaking of which, if anyone is interested I have the "old" bluetooth module for sale. See here for further details: Ducati Multimedia System)

Also on the to-do list are the last of the carbon bonded pieces to go on the bike. I wil hopefully get these done tomorrow or over the weekend at some point. After that I'll fit the steering damper back on and the associated wiring to it. Aside from re-connecting the tail tidy, that should conclude all the electrical work on the bike.

 

[topolino]

Made some great strides today by finally finishing off all the wiring on the bike. First off was to refit the headlight. A little tricky this, as I had to accommodate a few extra items such as the new bluetooth module and work out the best way to route the pigtails to the bar end indicators, such that they have no way of snagging on anything behind the headlight, once the steering is turned lock to lock. Several dry runs organising the loom/branches where they best fitted, before finally settling on the ideal and neatest arrangement

Fitted the initial two retention bolts Pro Bolt M5 x 20mm, torqued to 10Nm.





Next up the steering damper, secured with the Desmoworld billet bolt kit, torqued to 10Nm and Loctite 243. The electrical connector plugs straight in, secured with a tie wrap around the body of the damper (as per the workshop manual). You will have perhaps noticed the masking tape around the fork legs. This was to mark the position of the underside of the top yoke and to orientate the clip ons at the correct angle in it's absence. It will be removed once the top yoke is ready to go back on.





With the battery back on the bike, I could fit the Lieb Speed carbon ignition switch cover, using the Desmoworld billet bolt kit. I will have to remove this part in order to fit the top yoke. The OEM steering stem nut is also being replaced, hence why the top yoke has not been fitted yet (one of the many parts still en-route).





Last job this afternoon was to fit the DP carbon frame protectors which have been clear coated, to match the rest of the carbon on the bike.





Not a lot more to do to the bike now. I am still waiting on parts (hopefully due next week). These include some of the last of the Moto Corse parts (one or two more pieces are due later on down the road), and some wheel hardware. I have still got to refill the cooling system, top up the oil and fill then bleed the hydraulic system. Yet to fit a new chain, refit the wheels, tail tidy (once it has been modified) and finish assembly of the rear section of the exhaust, after which I can run the engine to check for any leaks/issues etc and load the Termi UpMap as well as activate the bluetooth module with my OBD-STAR unit. The bodywork can then go back on, save the tail which is being replaced with an all new very trick style cowl in carbon, that is being custom painted to match the existing livery of the bike. It's unlikely I will finish the bike this side of Christmas but the project should be wrapped up by late January / early February, all being well and good.

 

[topolino]

So a few more pieces (as well as almost the last of the MotoCorse parts) arrived today, and before anyone says it, yes this does mean dispensing with (well storing carefully at least) the numbered top yoke. I am not that fussed about that and in any case the dash displays the serial number at key on, so it is not as if the bike's identity has disappeared forever. I'll have to be careful fitting the top yoke, as the forks tend to "spread" a little whenever any bracing is removed. Some judicious heat applied to the new yoke will also make life a little easier. First job will be to fit the centre steering nut. I finished work quite late tonight, so hopefully I will have some free time tomorrow evening to fit them all. I also dug out my old "Desmoworld" steering stem nut tool, which has a way more precise fit than many I have tried and won't marr the anodising when I torque the nut to spec.

New Moto Corse top yoke, which, as with all their products, is beautifully machined.





New CNC Racing steering stem nut



Desmoworld steering stem nut tool



Machined pins are an exact fit, which ensures little to no chance of damaging the anodised surface of the stem nut



Hopefully these will go on without any complications

 

[topolino]

So with a little persuasion and some heat, I managed to fit the top yoke and stem nut tonight. Took a little time but patience is worth it's weight in gold to avoid any risk of damaging the parts or the bike in doing so.





Stainless steel fasteners:
Pro Bolt M8 x 20mm clip-on bolts torqued to 22Nm
Moto Corse M8 x 25mm top yoke to fork bolts torqued to 22Nm
Moto Corse M8 x 20mm top yoke to steering stem nut torqued to 22Nm

Billet parts:
CNC Racing steering stem nut torqued to 35Nm

Next up was fitting the billet alloy Bonamici generator casing protector kit. ACCU torx head stainless steel bolts torqued initially to 3.5Nm then 90° turn, followed by further torque to 5.5Nm. Critical you don't overtighten these, else you are in a world of pain, if you strip the threads in the crankcase.









Heres an overview of the bike as of this evening. As mentioned previously not a lot left to do. Still waiting on a few parts to progress the build much further, so hopefully some of them will turn up by the weekend.

 

[topolino]

Finally got around to fitting the Moto Corse front frame plugs. On the Panigale V4, these are asymmetrical as the front right hand frame bolt is deeply recessed and requires a spacer. The left does not. This kit is actually for the Steetfighter V4 where both sides are recessed. For the Panigale, this simply entails removing the spacer on the left hand side and using a 10mm bolt, instead of the one provided to secure the frame cap. Job done. Frame bolts torqued to 90Nm.

 

[topolino]

So here are the wheels. Some hardware is now enroute, so hopefully I can get these built up, tyres refitted and balanced in the next few days.

 

[topolino]

Though I won't be using these bleed nipples to bleed the brakes, as I have fitted Stahlbus banjo bolt bleeders to the front calipers, I wanted to change out the stock OEM bleed nipples with these Pro Bolt M8 stainless steel items. Once fitted I can forget about them. OEM Brembo rubber dust caps will be fitted once they are in place.

 

[topolino]

So these arrived yesterday morning. Brembo HPK Supersport fully floating 330mm gold brake discs. Could have gone for T-drive rotors but they are only produced in black. I won't get a chance to fit them until tomorrow evening, as I've other commitments this weekend, but should contrast well against the carbon rims.