DUCATI Panigale V4 25° Anniversario 916 BUILD Thread

[BMW Alpina]

Rizoma handle bar grip with CNC Racing ZERO SLACK throttle bar (like the Throttle Spacer but without that spacer)
However, (I found this later in the future after the parts below arrived), if you want to use the same Rizoma handle bar grip, turn out it already came integrated with the Throttle Bar, so the CNC Racing Throttle bar will not be needed.
But since the Rizoma handle bar grip use the same "slack" design like stock, you will need to use that "throttle spacer" to remove the slack.




Ducati Performance Rear MudGuard/Hugger (I sold the original carbon unit that came with my bike so I can have this one with the "Ducati Performance" Label on it).
Cannot let HKMP7 rocking "Ducati Performance Label" on his rear mudguard alone



Ducati Performance Carbon Generator Cover:


Ducati by Rizoma Front Axle Slider (which I temporarily install right away)



Unfortunately 16RCS CORSA CORTA Clutch Master Cylinder was delayed until Fall/Winter 2020, now ETA in October 2020

 

[BMW Alpina]

We can talk about my journey in MODIFYING my Ducati, however, once in a while,
I would like to talk a bit about myself, so readers can understand on why I did this, on why I am spending time, money, effort, even why I am building this DUCATImodified.com FORUM.

As I had mentioned on my first post, I purchased this bike with the intention to inspire my 2 young sons and also inspire them

However, sometimes in Mid-May 2020, my oldest son inspire me instead when we received his VALEDICTORIAN medal in our mailbox.
That was the proudest moment I ever had in my life by far:


If right now, someone put a gun to my head and tell me to choose between my son's medal above and my Ducati, I will choose the medal above!!!
I can always buy another limited edition Ducati with money, but you cannot buy that Valedictorian medal at all.

 

[BMW Alpina]

By the way, while my oldest Son graduated from High School, I also graduated from taking the fairing apart :

 

[BMW Alpina]

Oh another info for everyone and as a reminder (AGAIN) not to order things on Amazon in the middle of the night when my eyes were sleepy...

Many and I really mean A LOT of the bolts on our bike need grease when you put it on, to prevent stripping the thread and later seizing.
When I replace small amount of ProTi bolt before, I always used either the grease that came with ProTi package or use my Loctite silver anti-seize, but those are small bolts with not much torque...

However, I was planning to replace the engine to frame bolt using V4EVO Titanium bolts for the lower front mounting and MotoCorse Stainless Steel with cover for the upper rear mounting.
I was checking the torque and it 90Nm and it require the Grease B.

I thought I already bought the right Grease B a couple of months ago (purchased while I was sleepy), this one:
SHELL GADUS S2 V220 2 HIGH PERFORMANCE MULTIPURPOSE EXTREME PRESSURE GREASE 400GM
Amazon.com: SHELL GADUS S2 V220 2 HIGH PERFORMANCE MULTIPURPOSE EXTREME PRESSURE GREASE 400GM: Automotive

But upon closer inspection to the spec last night (when I was NOT too sleepy), I realized I bought a very slightly different code but have very different material in the grease. I should have bought this one instead:
SHELL GADUS S2 V220AD 2 HIGH PERFORMANCE MULTIPURPOSE EXTREME PRESSURE GREASE WITH SOLIDS 400GM
Amazon.com: SHELL GADUS S2 V220AD 2 HIGH PERFORMANCE MULTIPURPOSE EXTREME PRESSURE GREASE WITH SOLIDS 400GM: Automotive
Below is the picture of the correct GADUS grease:

So because, I want to follow the factory grease requirement, I decided to order the right grease and now waiting for the grease to arrive before I can continue.
I also want to share the list of the official Greases for our bike:

GREASE A
Multipurpose, medium fibre, lithium grease.
SHELL Alvania R3

GREASE B
Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical stress and high temperature resistant.
SHELL Retinax HDX2 or
SHELL Gadius S2 V220 AD 2

GREASE C
Bearing/joint grease for parts subject to prolonged mechanical stress. Temperature range: 10 to 110 °C.
SHELL Retinax LX2

 

[Lucati]

Hahah, I’ve made the mistake of ordering things right when waking up with eyes not fully open and not looking closely. Had me buy the wrong part twice in a row, and had the quantities wrong on a few orders....gotta stay away from that “sleep ordering”

 

[BMW Alpina]

I spent a few hours and was taking my time to install the Rizoma handgrip, below are the pictures:

I bought this spacers a while ago before I realized that CNC Racing make the whole assembly that will not require this throttle spacer,
but... on a positive note, I got that special screw head bit to open the uniquely shaped screw holding the plastic throttle housing.
Meaning it is not as useless (although the truth is,... I could buy the bits separately at much cheaper price, so this is just my excuse for making mistake



Open the 4 screws, including the one with the unique head:



Comparing the stock throttle tube with the CNC Racing version then use this Silicone Grease that I bought for my old Honda Fit project:



Install everything back:


Happy with the result, only got so mad with myself for not opening the new Rizoma Grip first... because turn out... the Rizoma Grip came with BUILT IN Throttle tube
So I have to disassemble and took out the CNC Racing throttle tube (now this is the part that will be useless), then hahaha, the ORANGE SPACER actually is THE CHOSEN ONE, so I install the Rizoma Throttle Grip along with the Orange Spacer:




Finished on the Throttle side:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Now the Left Side:

Struggle a bit removing the stock handgrip using compressed air, then utilized the Desmoworld Aluminum Spacer replacing the thinner stock Plastic Spacer, That Desmoworld CNC machined Aluminum Spacer looks so much better :


Complete both sides:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Next, I replaced the air filter with the Sprint Air Filter PF160S F1-85.
From my past experiences replacing every air filters in my previous cars with the higher flowing filter (I always use K&N), I can hear some extra induction noise (just a bit for drop in filter, and much louder if I replace with cold air intake kit system...
I still remember, years ago, when I replaced air filter in the Aprilia RS125 airbox, and that made a good amount of induction noise), but this Sprint Air Filter PF160S F1-85 did not make any induction noise differences...
Maybe need to drive it higher RPM, but from stationary rev it up 7000 rpm, it sounds the same as stock. Well, that's ok, at least now I know how to replace air filter on this bike

 

[BMW Alpina]

I was planning to remove the fuel tank so I can have easy access to modified anything around the rear suspensions (springs, mounting bracket etc). Turns out there is one hose that use Clic style clamp on the left side of the fuel tank, best remove by a special plier:
Amazon.com: CTA Tools 4029 Clic & Clic-R Hose Clamp Plier: Automotive

To connect the clutch and brake lever switch wiring when I replace with Corsa Corta Master Cylinder, order this waterproof connector:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WGBTCMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

also, the Motul Chain Lube that I somehow forgot to order in the past: Amazon.com: Motul M/C Care Factory Line Chain Lube, 9.3oz: Automotive

At the same day, I tried removing the rear sprocket and rear wheel. I use my 24in long 1/2in drive breaker bar and the CNC Racing wheel nut socket tool, but the wheel and sprocket nut did not want to cooperate.
I then use my Makita Impact Wrench which never fail me before, yet this time fail to open the wheel nut.
After many try with Makita impact wrench, I decided to just go back to Amazon and order an even larger 3/4in drive with 40in long breaker bar (and 3/4 to 1/2in )adapter:
TEKTON 3/4 Inch Drive x 40 Inch Breaker Bar | SBH00340 - - Amazon.com

Amazon.com: TEKTON 47823 3/4-Inch Drive (F) to 1/2-Inch Drive (M) Impact Reducer, Cr-V: Home Improvement

But before I call it off that day, I was curious and try one more time with my 24in long 1/2in drive breaker bar,... and voila I was able to open the wheel side nut.
Happy with the progress, I decided to continue work on the sprocket side nut, with both Makita Impact Wrench and then breaker bar but it won't bulge on the sprocket side... so I will just have to wait until the new longer breaker bar arrived from Amazon in a few days.

However, as consolation, I tested fit the AELLA Titanium Nut (on the wheel side) with both the AELLA (hard anodized color) Spacer/Washer and AEM Factory (gold) Spacer Washer.
Below are the pictures and I like the AEM Factory gold color better, especially with their "laser marking showing the torque in Nm :






I also ordered the tail/brake light connector for my LED tail/brake light project (will be kinda hidden), This way I don't have to cut the factory wiring to tap the current, details coming soon

 

[BMW Alpina]

More parts arrived...
This was my largest ProTi orders, about $2,500 in value. I ordered about $1,000 of ProTi in the previous 3 separate orders and I am sure many more $$$ in future orders to complete all the ProTi bolts conversion that I want to achieve.
below is what a $2,500 in ProTi orders looks like:



But the Crown Jewel of this order is actually this newest product for Panigale V4 from CNC Racing,
the CNC Racing Titanium Steering Stem Nut, shaped like a CROWN and a perfect complement for the Melotti Racing Upper Triple Clamp, pictures below.
Oh wait, did I mention that CNC Racing MIRROR POLISHED mine?




Thanks to @HKMP7 who had taken out his stock stem nut, and he found out that the stock Ducati Aluminum one weight 50grams, so this Titanium version is 50% heavier
Well, it's ok, as long as it have that label saying "Titanium" on it

 

[BMW Alpina]

I was having trouble sleeping... so... I decided to test fit and see the color combination of the Sprocket system that I already had, so I can change and order replacement if I don't like it.

Below were the parts that I test fit tonight:
a. Sitta Quick Change Sprocket Kit
b. AEM Sprocket Holder
c. AEM Cushion Drive with AEM STUD and Titanium Nut (and compare to my ProTi Gold Nut)
d. AELLA Titanium Axle Nut

and after comparing I decide the AEM Titanium Nut is much better fit in both color and shape (12 side vs. 6 side) compare to the ProTi Gold Nut, so I will exchange the ProTi Gold Nut to an even nicer MotoCorse Titanium Nut

Here are the final configuration with AEM Titanium Nut before adding the sprocket:




After adding the sprocket:

 

[BMW Alpina]

Some Ducati OEM Parts arrived"

My most favorite of them all is the Ducati Panigale V4 Speciale Seat. Back in December 2019 when I was looking at the bikes at several dealership, I notice the Panigale V4 Speciale Seat is the nicest among every version of the seats. I also don't like the red part on my 916 25 Anniversario seat... they look kinda plastiky red... so I made a promise that I will replace my seat with the Panigale V4 Speciale seat.
After waiting for 3 months (due to closure and delay from Ducati factory closing), I finally received it today. Please note that the black color on the center Alcantara section are much blacker/darker and nicer
than what my iPhone camera can capture and the red stitching also nicer in person than on the pictures below. Very happy today




The Ducati SHARK FIN Carbon Chain Guard and Ducati Performance Titanium swing arm guard also arrived
(note: I sold my original titanium swing arm guard and buy again as accessories because only if you purchase as accesories, it will have the "Ducati Performance" Label on it) :


Ducati by Rizoma Brake Lever Guard, because my original one that came with my bike have blemishes so I buy another one (sold the original one at a low price to a forum member here):





I also bought some original fairing stickers as a spare just in case plus some other Ducati original sticker and emblems for my project sticker on matte carbon fiber coming soon:



Last, purchase the tank protector again (because my current one is peeling, I think because the cold winter weather when I first apply it,
along with Ducati Performance backing plate for US size license plate (I am ordering personalize license plate,
however, I need to wait a bit since CA DMV unable to produce it due to the current situation):

 

[BMW Alpina]

Since I bought this bike, I always thought something just don't feel right when I look at the center portion of my bike... it's like the bike is a bit too modern and closed everywhere...
Suddenly I realized, it's the engine cover,.. I don't like the engine with the beautiful magnesium colored head to be covered... I want to see the mechanical heart
But I don't want to remove the tank until I need to remove the tank which is today:

Before: After:




Before: After:






Then, I proceed to remove the original DID factory chain using the Beta Tools. This tools make life so much easier.
However I won't be installing my EK 3D GOLD chain yet, because I still need to do a lot of work in the rear wheel area and don't want the chain to be on the way.
Plus, some bolts that will be replace by ProTi bolts holding the multiple chain slider/protector etc will not be accessible if the chain is installed.





Next, I upgrade the Engine Mounting Bolt.
The front lower mounting bolt, I choose the V4EVO Titanium Bolt due to their thicker flange design while the ProTi version has very thin flange head flange design.

By the way, I tighten this lower front engine frame bolt to 90Nm using the Grease B, but I read at ProTi website (then I do more research) that it's best to reduce the torque by 10% to 15% since this is Titanium bolt not steel.
Which make me worry if this Titanium bolt from v4evo might someday snap... So, I just order a new set from v4evo, and I will take out the current bolt and replace with the same but brand new V4EVO Titanium bolt, use grease B and torque it to just 80Nm.
I might be paranoid, but I want to make it perfect and for piece of mind

Also, make sure you use GREASE B as Ducati recommend, otherwise you will risk STRIPPING your engine mounting bolt thread.

 

[BMW Alpina]

The rear upper engine mounting bolts, due to it is visibility, are replaced by the Gorgeous MotoCorse Kit instead:





Also, I purchase 2 set of Rain Cover so I can cover my 2 seats, the original 916 25 Anniversario red seat and the V4 Speciale seat:




Next, I visit my painter to ask her to pain the word "DUCATI" on the Rizoma LEFT clutch lever guard just like the one on the Ducati by Rizoma RIGHT brake lever guard:



Waterproof socket for electrical connection (to connect brake light and clutch switch on the upcoming RCS17 and RCS16 master cylinder) arrived:



Plier needed for the special clamp (breather tube) on the Gas Tank arrived:



Last, I spent 3 days researching to find ideas to replace this handlebar tube bolts with Titanium one and have TORX instead of socket hex on it, stay tuned on this one



I should have more modification and will updates tomorrow, if I am not tired

 

[Lucati]

Hey Howard quick question. The front calipers I have on my 1299, the brembo m50, would I be able to nickel plate them? I remember seeing this talked about somewhere but I just can’t find or remember where.
Thanks!

 

[BMW Alpina]

Hey Howard quick question. The front calipers I have on my 1299, the brembo m50, would I be able to nickel plate them? I remember seeing this talked about somewhere but I just can’t find or remember where.
Thanks!

Hi Lucati,

What a coincidence... about maybe 2 months ago, I was studying the possibility to anodize my Brembo Stylema calipers (basically they are almost the same as your M50 Calipers)... being cast and monoblock...
but I abandon the idea and end up selling my stock Brembo Stylema Calipers to @Styler

I strongly recommend NOT to do any Nickel Plating or Anodizing unless it was done at the factory since the beginning.
This website link is for Brembo GP4-MS: 100 mm 'GP4-MS' Radial Billet Caliper Kit
I copy and paste a paragraph on this website that was related to this:
In common with its competition calipers, the Brembo GP4-MS also has nickel surface finishing.
In addition to attractive styling, this process has made it possible to comply with strict manufacturing tolerances, to the benefit of performance and operating precision.

Please pay attention to the word: "with strict manufacturing tolerances"... and "operating precision"

So each time you perform a plating, it add some thickness to the material and this will change the dimension very slightly. This is critical in tight tolerance area like any mounting holes, any thread, or in caliper, the piston holes.
Now, since your M50 was painted from the factory, you will need to remove the paint (and some of the aluminum surface during pre-plating process) then add the nickel plating, and I am not sure whether it will end up thicker or thinner after this whole process.

Any changes to the dimension, might still tolerable in regular street use because the piston seals can still compensate and seal properly, but once you expose your caliper to high temperature (like track use), then the dimension of everything on the caliper will change more drastically due to heat, and this is when a non factory plating might cause either leak (if the plating cause too much surface lost) or seize/more friction if the plating cause the surface to be too thick. As you know, unlike painting, where you can more easily select the area you want to paint, the nickel plating process was perform in a "bath" (the part is submerged in a solution). Yes, there are some ways to plug a thread hole to prevent them from being plated... but still I won't risk it for front brake calipers, and I suspect the pistons holes will be too big to be plug completely...

@HKMP7 successfully anodized his new Suter Racing (by Brembo) billet rear brake master cylinder without leak, but I think this is because the rubber seal in the master cylinder able to compensate for the dimension changes after the anodizing, plus the rear master cylinder will not be exposed to extreme heat like the front calipers will be... so not much dimension changes from heat to worry about.

Plus, your M50 caliper was CAST and NOT machined,... the cast process make the surface of the M50 ROUGH and a nickel plating on a rough metal surface will not create the same reflectivity and shine like on a smoother machined CNC surface like on the Brembo GP4-MS.
Of course, you can mirror polished your M50 caliper before the plating (like I did with some of the suspension bracket), this will make the result much better. This website provide good information about this issue: How do I obtain a bright and reflective finish on my product? | APT

If you just want to change the looks, Painting (but NOT powder coating) will be the best solution, however, there is no paint currently available to make it look like nickel plated finish though...

 

[Lucati]

Hi Lucati,

What a coincidence... about maybe 2 months ago, I was studying the possibility to anodize my Brembo Stylema calipers (basically they are almost the same as your M50 Calipers)... being cast and monoblock...
but I abandon the idea and end up selling my stock Brembo Stylema Calipers to @Styler

I strongly recommend NOT to do any Nickel Plating or Anodizing unless it was done at the factory since the beginning.
This website link is for Brembo GP4-MS: 100 mm 'GP4-MS' Radial Billet Caliper Kit
I copy and paste a paragraph on this website that was related to this:
In common with its competition calipers, the Brembo GP4-MS also has nickel surface finishing.
In addition to attractive styling, this process has made it possible to comply with strict manufacturing tolerances, to the benefit of performance and operating precision.

Please pay attention to the word: "with strict manufacturing tolerances"... and "operating precision"

So each time you perform a plating, it add some thickness to the material and this will change the dimension very slightly. This is critical in tight tolerance area like any mounting holes, any thread, or in caliper, the piston holes.
Now, since your M50 was painted from the factory, you will need to remove the paint (and some of the aluminum surface during pre-plating process) then add the nickel plating, and I am not sure whether it will end up thicker or thinner after this whole process.

Any changes to the dimension, might still tolerable in regular street use because the piston seals can still compensate and seal properly, but once you expose your caliper to high temperature (like track use), then the dimension of everything on the caliper will change more drastically due to heat, and this is when a non factory plating might cause either leak (if the plating cause too much surface lost) or seize/more friction if the plating cause the surface to be too thick. As you know, unlike painting, where you can more easily select the area you want to paint, the nickel plating process was perform in a "bath" (the part is submerged in a solution). Yes, there are some ways to plug a thread hole to prevent them from being plated... but still I won't risk it for front brake calipers, and I suspect the pistons holes will be too big to be plug completely...

@HKMP7 successfully anodized his new Suter Racing (by Brembo) billet rear brake master cylinder without leak, but I think this is because the rubber seal in the master cylinder able to compensate for the dimension changes after the anodizing, plus the rear master cylinder will not be exposed to extreme heat like the front calipers will be... so not much dimension changes from heat to worry about.

Plus, your M50 caliper was CAST and NOT machined,... the cast process make the surface of the M50 ROUGH and a nickel plating on a rough metal surface will not create the same reflectivity and shine like on a smoother machined CNC surface like on the Brembo GP4-MS.
Of course, you can mirror polished your M50 caliper before the plating (like I did with some of the suspension bracket), this will make the result much better. This website provide good information about this issue: How do I obtain a bright and reflective finish on my product? | APT

If you just want to change the looks, Painting (but NOT powder coating) will be the best solution, however, there is no paint currently available to make it look like nickel plated finish though...

Awesome, thanks for all that info I appreciate it!

 

[BMW Alpina]

My goal was to only replace the rear spring and install MotoCorse rear suspension mount,
However, ... it was not as easy as I thought. I want to do it carefully... plus turn out I will need to buy some bolts so I have to wait longer... This was about 3 months ago... little did I know that I find more things to MODIFIED along the way,
and up to today (September 9'2020), I still had not installed the rear suspension back

So, It started by removing the wheel from the swing arm and the rear subframe to make it easier for me to reach for the "very hard to reach" rear exhaust manifolds bolts, so I can remove the entire rear exhaust manifolds so I can remove the Akrapovic silencer so I can access the lower link to replace it with the lowering link from AELLA and also to install the MotoCorse suspension mounting plus change springs... Yap, remove this to access this seemed to be the recurring themed here...

For better stability, I decided to remove my front choke stand and replace it with the CENTER ABBA stand. This way, I can move the steering because I thought I could finish early to install ProTi bolts on the lower triple clamp and more around that area...
but that was not the case, anyway, below are the pictures with just the center ABBA stand:


Apparently, it is not that easy... it looks like the real way to take out the original suspension mounting bracket and replace it with MotoCorse is to take off the swing arm !!!
Well, I don't want to do this... so I found that if I swing the swing arm far enough, I should barely have access to remove the 2 lower bolts that hold the suspension mounting bracket...
so I put my rear scissor jack to support the rear swing arm:




Then I took out the whole rear exhaust manifold and plug the hole to make sure nothing accidentally goes into the cylinder, I will have to order a new GASKET and some extra swivel socket tools and socket extension from my experience taking it out, this way, it should be easier when it times to install them back:


However, turn out that I really need to take out the entire rear suspension lower link which I did... and still the lowest of the 2 mounting bolts for the Ohlins bracket (to the crankcase) still don't have enough clearance,
the picture below shows the top bolt barely out, the lower bolts is even harder....


But finally after really move things around (meaning moving the swing arm up or down to it's most further position),
I was able to get the lower bolt out too. I will replace this bolt with the bolt without built in integrated washer (but I will add separate washer of course), because I just need 2mm clearance. This should give better room to "wiggle it in" next time.
I don't know the grade of the bolts from factory, but to be super safe, I ordered the bolts with the highest 12.9 grade metric today (with Zinc plate), so hopefully this will make my life much easier and maybe looks better due to zinc plating, if not I will paint it.
I don't want Stainless Steel bolt because I want the to get the strongest bolt, and I cannot use ProTi or ProBolt Titanium bolt because a Hex tool (for socket hex) or Torx Tool will not have enough clearance to tighten them... need to be regular bolt with hex head.
But I will replace the 2 top bolts which currently already have TORX shape from factory with the ProTi Titanium Torx bolts though, it will look great there and provide contrast with the beautiful anodized MotoCorse mounting bracket

Left picture shows the lower bolts still stuck and right picture after I manage to took it out:



And this is how my bike look like for now:

 

[BMW Alpina]

I read a story about a new owner of a Streetfighter V4S who just purchased his bike and during his FIRST long ride, his radiator gut punctured by a stone from the front tire.

As you all know, I am not planning to ride this bike, but if someday, my sons already grew up and make good income and I am already financially secure to retire, maybe, I will ride this bike just for a short ride around the block...
and that might be... I don't know 15 or 20 years from now... I imagine if I punctured my radiator at that time, it might not be easy to find original replacement... well I don't know, but just in case...
So, I decided to do research on which radiator protector would look the best.

I notice the Evotech Performance (UK) is very popular and it's hexagonal wiring mesh is very attractive with that black color. However, I just want to look for something more special...
so I look at every brand out there like :
a. Evotech Srl (Italy) different company
b. Ducabike
c. CNC Racing
d. RG-Racing
e. AELLA
f. MotoCorse

So before I show you my choice, let me show you the other offerings available out there:


Ducabike:

CNC Racing:

RG Racing:

Evotech Performance UK:

Evotech Srl (Italy):

and MotoCorse Titanium:

Of all the above, the 2 finalist were MotoCorse and AELLA. MotoCorse because it is Titanium. However, for the radiator protector, I can't make myself to like the golden shade for the radiator grille combine with the RED MotoCorse logo,
I think it is too much and make like the radiators were rusting (from the yellowish golden shade)

Plus, I found out that the AELLA grille design although on the picture is not as attractive as the Evotech hexagonal wiring mesh design, but it was better engineered.
AELLA, engineered the center portion of the grille which will be right behind the front tire most of the time and received the brunt of the rock/debris punishment with much smaller holes size compare to the left and right portion of the grille.
Thus the left and right portion will allow more air flow to pass through to cool the radiator and oil cooler. This is an amazing attention to engineering detail. So I choose AELLA.

Now, time to choose color, the black AELLA grille would look sharp, menacing and cool. it will also accentuate the wideness of the body and make the red fairing more contrast,
however... I remember the original 916 had a silver radiator grille, and in the mid 90's it was a refreshing departure from the black radiator color of other bikes....
so despite thinking that black might look better, I choose silver just for heritage and sentimental reason...

Boy... I am glad I choose silver because the black would not show the details in the design of the grille and I never thought I would be amaze by a simple radiator grille protector, but this one from AELLA really is very high quality.
I think it also looks better in person than from those stock photos on AELLA's website

Let's go over the pictures:
The nice Packaging:




Now, please pay attention to the smaller opening of the Center part and the larger holes opening for the right side of the grille,
It actually GRADUALLY become larger as closer to the outer frame, that is really attention to details:



Ok, now the rest of the pictures, I think they are not only gorgeous but also classy at the same time:


I can't wait to install these...

 

[BMW Alpina]

Turn out UPS drop by very late that evening and deliver all the bolts I needed to install the rear suspension bracket and link back:


I noticed the bolts that came with the AELLA lowering links was only grade 10.9.
I want to upgrade all the bolts to grade 12.9, plus purchase them with better dimension in length, head diameter, washer diameter so it will fit and distribute the tightening torque better (oh and have better clearance in tight spaces)

I tried to purchase bolts with Zinc coating just so it won't rust easily if I wash the bike someday, but some of them came only in Black Oxide, so I have to get them "special" coating
I had been refreshing my memory this past few days on the Material Engineering, it was my favorite class during my college day, but after 25 years, I forgot most of it already

I also have to wait for my MotoCorse (Japan) steering hub cover to arrive anyway because I plan to anodize the MotoCorse together with the lower link, so no rush.
Which also means, my bike will looks like this for the next months or so since... MotoCorse think it is fashionable to be late (in delivery) all the time
This is what a MotoCorse steering hub cover looks like:

By the way, I also purchase this Titanium Oil Cap from MotoCorse Japan because it had the MotoCorse Logo machined on it, while the MotoCorse Italy version did not have those logo: