V4RG build

[Motosurgeon]

Went for a long ride yesterday. Temps between 75 and 85F. Bike got hot enough to boil over. The reservoir catch can was removed so it spilled out of my vent. Not sure how much coolant I lost but I think I had enough to finish the rest of the ride. I was surprised that the coolant was boiling at around 235F. I feel like this could be due to the VP Stay Frosty lower boiling point. I am considering getting a different radiator cap but not sure if anyone else has tried this and if I should be cautious about any aspect of the modification. I have the samco thermostat delete hose kit but am more concerned about the coolant temp sensor o-ring failing. Should I pressure test the system to see if the higher pressure would cause a leak? Should I just stop riding my track bike around town during the summer? We'll see if there is anything to learn from this. For now I'll top off the coolant and retest when it cools down a bit more. Here is a random picture I found that shows the reservoir/vent setup.

 

[BMW Alpina]

Something must be wrong, maybe the flow of coolant was partially blocked, or the coolant mixture is incorrect, or the flow of air to the radiator was blocked somehow... Also changing radiator cap to larger pressure should not have any bad effect.
Maybe start with changing the coolant with normal regular Ducati recommended coolant (or any automotive coolant), with the correct coolant vs water mixture.

 

[HKMP7]

I concur because riding in AZ in 115 degs my bike doesn’t mind it at all.

 

[Motosurgeon]

I concur because riding in AZ in 115 degs my bike doesn’t mind it at all.

From what I can tell the bike is not running any hotter than before.
It has been up to the 4th bar heat range when in traffic. The only change is VP Stay Frosty coolant which has a much lower boiling point but should otherwise help the bike run cooler.
250F vs 400F is my guess depends on the system pressure.
I have deleted the fans so that probably doesn't help when I have to pass through a 15 mph school zone, 20 mph small town, or the occasional red light.
Bike runs normal temps on track and on the open road.

 

[Motosurgeon]

Forsaken Motorsports linear link in parts que.

 

[Motosurgeon]

Black Friday shopping spree has added a few parts to the winter part upgrades que.

I2M sensor wiring and front rear suspension potentiometers
DNA air filter
SBS Dual Sinter 2 front brake pads
RCS Corsa Corta 16 clutch master cylinder

Hopefully I do not regret this as it is not a direct match to the RR brake master I also have in que but the other options are around $300-$500 more for billet Brembo options and I lose whatever functionality related to the clutch sensor. I might wire the clutch lever sensor to one of the dead buttons on my 7 button I2M left switch pod to offset this allowing starting the bike in gear etc. I don't expect any obvious improvements with this, just cosmetic and hopefully lose a few grams.
I struggle to see what benefit there is in any of these higher spec clutch master cylinders from the $332 RCS up to the $2000 billet options. If anyone wants to enlighten me, please do.

The oem v4 master cylinders will likely replace the coffin style ones on my 999 if I can get a good deal on some 30mm piston calipers.

 

[Motosurgeon]

Update

Much of this was posted to the other forum as I did not seem to get much attention here. Since the build is mostly done I'll add the up to date build changes.

I2M tpms and front/rear potentiometers were added and tested leading up to the track day to diagnose suspension settings leading up to the 9/14 track day at Thunderhill East.
FM linear link is in and has improved rear suspension travel slightly.
V4R swingarm pivot is in and set to the -3mm after monitoring rear anti-squat characteristics with the data logger. The difference in anti-squat allowed me to use the less intrusive DWC level 1 as the wheelie was easier to manage with the throttle.
Triple clamp offset has been set to +2mm which was a noticeable improvement with no obvious drawbacks.
Headlight was deleted and replaced with the oem gutted version.
Rear abs lines and reservoir deleted.
Front calipers replaced with black ones. The silver ones will go on my 2015 Panigale R, and those calipers will go on my 999S.

The weight has come down to about 398 lbs with 1 gallon of gas in the tank. I was going add some woodcraft bar-end slider lever guards which would have offset my weight loss but they wouldn't fit my ET clip ons which have a smaller ID.

Wanting to bring the weight down a bit further I got a set of BST Star Tek wheels which I found for 20% off.
Front star tek (with spacers) is 2828 g ~ 6.24 lbs
Rear star tek is 2265 g ~ 5 lbs
Weight saved compared to a set of forged marchesini wheels about 3.88 lbs all unsprung mass mostly at the rear wheel. There isn't much of of a weight savings at the front and improvements here seem to be focused on reducing inertia.

The last few steps will likely be a set of track fairings with a light weight fairing stay/intake possibly carbon. I am also looking for some Ti parts to swap out but there isn't much left with the rear axle nuts being the best improvement and diminishing returns for everything that follows.