Hi, I recently noting a knocking noise from the V4 at idle. Does anyone else hear that? It seems to be coming from the vertical cylinder. The bike runs fine. I have had it getting mods so I don't remember if it was there before. I am pretty particular about these things. Any and all replies welcome.
Panigale V4 knocking noise at idle.
- Thread starter Apuca
- Start date
MaverickiB
Well-known member
Is the bike up to temperature?
V4s turn off the vertical cylinders at idle to reduce heat buildup under the seat. Makes it sound kind of odd. You also might just be hearing the desmo valves, as they have quite a bit of a rattle to them, especially if you remove the covers on the vertical heads.
V4s turn off the vertical cylinders at idle to reduce heat buildup under the seat. Makes it sound kind of odd. You also might just be hearing the desmo valves, as they have quite a bit of a rattle to them, especially if you remove the covers on the vertical heads.
Thanks, I figured. Yes it is up to temp. Thank you!
Hey,
Track day yesterday, bike fully hot. Could not shift the bike from 3-4 gear. I mean I really needed to hit that selector down almost pound on it to get it into fourth.
Setup:
GP shift
cordona quick shifter
I’m not sure if it’s an internal gear issue or Electronic. The shift were not smooth at all from 1-3. Fourth gear was nearly impossible to use. I’m not sure if the gear shift sensor or the cordona that’s fried. I have the module very well protected from the heat and have had it for 2 years now.
inputwelcome!!
Track day yesterday, bike fully hot. Could not shift the bike from 3-4 gear. I mean I really needed to hit that selector down almost pound on it to get it into fourth.
Setup:
GP shift
cordona quick shifter
I’m not sure if it’s an internal gear issue or Electronic. The shift were not smooth at all from 1-3. Fourth gear was nearly impossible to use. I’m not sure if the gear shift sensor or the cordona that’s fried. I have the module very well protected from the heat and have had it for 2 years now.
inputwelcome!!
bp_SFV4
Active member
Is all of the shifter/rearset hardware still torqued correctly? I've had the pivot bolt on the left side back out a bit which caused some wonky shift problems.
If you manually cut the throttle can you shift it without using the QS?
If you have the dealer tool or similar, you can see the voltage the QS is sending to the ECU and determine if its working.
If you manually cut the throttle can you shift it without using the QS?
If you have the dealer tool or similar, you can see the voltage the QS is sending to the ECU and determine if its working.
I’ll take a look at it today. But just 3-4 gear? So strange. Although it was very clunky 1-3 as well. Couple of times back wheel skipped up because of of how abrupt it was. I was ringing its neck coming out out of that last corner on to the straight.
The bike was recently transported from the west coast, I saw he had straps on the rear sets, hmmm??
Ill have to check the wires… really hope it’s not the gear box. I do have another set of dry clutch plates. Wonder if the plates are worn?The symptoms of that are quite different tho.
The bike was recently transported from the west coast, I saw he had straps on the rear sets, hmmm??
Ill have to check the wires… really hope it’s not the gear box. I do have another set of dry clutch plates. Wonder if the plates are worn?The symptoms of that are quite different tho.
Swapped to a new Cordona system and still the same issue. It seems like the engine cut off times are completely off. New symptom too. Bike was surging/chopping under constant throttle in all gears. I think it’s the following: tps issue, gear position sensor issue or side stand switch failure.
Thoughts? I’ve ordered all 3
Thoughts? I’ve ordered all 3
No knocking noise. I sometimes use the clutch shifting at slower speeds on the street. Mostly quick shifter tho. The issues come when I’m trying to use the quick shifter at high RMP’s. From 3-4 I have to hit the shifter 2x before it engages. It’s like
Literally jammed.
Only up shifts and yes stock hearing. I really hope it’s not mechanical.
bp_SFV4
Active member
With the dealer tool, or similar, you can go for a ride and record sensor values. It would be worth it to do so and see if the QS is sending the correct voltage to the ECU. If the QS is sending the right voltage, but the ECU is ignoring it, you would know it's not the QS.
If you disable the QS, and only use the clutch, does it shift normally?
That would tell you if its mechanical.
A shotgun guess, I think it's more electronic. I'd restore the tire calibration to default then test. If the problem persists, perform a tire calibration and test. If the problem persists again, you need to look at sensor values.
If you disable the QS, and only use the clutch, does it shift normally?
That would tell you if its mechanical.
A shotgun guess, I think it's more electronic. I'd restore the tire calibration to default then test. If the problem persists, perform a tire calibration and test. If the problem persists again, you need to look at sensor values.