Hypermotard 821 daily driver build

[Araitim]

Hi Araitim,
Congratulations in getting another great value purchase, I love that feeling of winning a bargain too
In this case, you really win big though,... I mean when you put your new Spark.it and the shift-tech silencer side by side, it's just no comparison, Spark.it just show elegance, very nice color contrast (the carbon fiber trioval with brush stainless finish) and the shape (proportion) is also so much better. Also, the shift-tech carbon fiber pattern and finish and color looks like it's not real carbon. In summary, Your bike instantly looks more "Exclusive" with the Spark.it

And of course, I am always biased toward high mounted undertail exhaust like a 916, so when I see the side by side picture of your new and old system on the bike, the Spark.it system make it instantly recognizable like a DUCATI, while the shift-tech is almost like emmm a big scooter exhaust..., I think it even looks better than many of Termignoni silencer... I also love your idea to modify it further and make it a dual left and right silencer, I think it will look even more unique, more special, and no one else will have the same looks (unless they copy which mean you are the pioneer and master of the idea)

Also, what do you think about adding some dry carbon fiber heat shield on the right side of the pipe (slightly above) the right rear set like the 916? (of course in pattern and color as close as the Spark.it carbon fiber), that would require a bit of welding the mounting of course... Are you able to perform welding? Welding is one of the thing that I never tried or train in my life, I know soldering but I don't think it will help me doing welding. Maybe someday when I already retired, I will learn how to weld just so I have the experience

By the way, I was doing some axle research last night until 4 am (and spent the whole afternoon sleeping today ) and I have a question.
Is your front axle the same size, shape and length as the Hypermotard 796 front axle?

Thank you. I have welding provisions but in this case they make band clamps that have a nut welded to them that can be tightened to the pipe and then a heat shield fixed to it. I have meaning to make a heal guard for the opposite side over the winter. Now I need one of the pipe side. I was thinking about making a welded trellis guard or making my own carbon fiber design. I think I might be able to incorporate the heat shield(aluminum or carbon) into the heal guard. I have 3x3 twill cloth on hand with plenty of 2 part epoxy but I need to tap Into my creativeity to come up with a plan.

I love the idea of being the original design for the dual hypermotard 821/939 high mount. To be honest I think it would be the "go to" aftermarket since the 1100, 796 AND the new 950 all have dual under tail exhausts. For whatever reason they did not do it on the 821/939.

As for the front axle, both 796 and 821 use a 28mm OD where the bearing rides but other than that they are different . I can't seem to find the actual overall length but they use different axle nuts. The 796 threads stick out the end of the fork lower and uses a normal looking nut that threads onto the axle while the 821 threads stop short of the end of the fork lower and the nut has a male portion to the nut that is actually clamped into the fork lower. Notice the difference in the pic between the 2 . Top is for the 821 bottom 796.

 

[BMW Alpina]

Thank you. I have welding provisions but in this case they make band clamps that have a nut welded to them that can be tightened to the pipe and then a heat shield fixed to it. I have meaning to make a heal guard for the opposite side over the winter. Now I need one of the pipe side. I was thinking about making a welded trellis guard or making my own carbon fiber design. I think I might be able to incorporate the heat shield(aluminum or carbon) into the heal guard. I have 3x3 twill cloth on hand with plenty of 2 part epoxy but I need to tap Into my creativeity to come up with a plan.

I love the idea of being the original design for the dual hypermotard 821/939 high mount. To be honest I think it would be the "go to" aftermarket since the 1100, 796 AND the new 950 all have dual under tail exhausts. For whatever reason they did not do it on the 821/939.

As for the front axle, both 796 and 821 use a 28mm OD where the bearing rides but other than that they are different . I can't seem to find the actual overall length but they use different axle nuts. The 796 threads stick out the end of the fork lower and uses a normal looking nut that threads onto the axle while the 821 threads stop short of the end of the fork lower and the nut has a male portion to the nut that is actually clamped into the fork lower. Notice the difference in the pic between the 2 . Top is for the 821 bottom 796. View attachment 2274

Thanks so much for the information and the picture Araitim, it looks like the nut for the 821 is similar in style to the Panigale V4.
Another question, do you think it will be ok if I Re-Tap an M24 x 1.5 nut to M25 x 1.25?
Because based on this table of recommended drill bit for tapping, : Recommended Tapping Drill Size
I think I almost can make it (meaning enough "meat" to carve the threads) but might not be ideal thread height (the top of thread peak is not tall enough from the valley of the thread)
What do you think based on your experience?


I also just found this picture of the 796 axle dimension, so I think your 821 have longer spacing between the forks than the older 796....

 

[Araitim]

Thanks so much for the information and the picture Araitim, it looks like the nut for the 821 is similar in style to the Panigale V4.
Another question, do you think it will be ok if I Re-Tap an M24 x 1.5 nut to M25 x 1.25?
Because based on this table of recommended drill bit for tapping, : Recommended Tapping Drill Size
I think I almost can make it (meaning enough "meat" to carve the threads) but might not be ideal thread height (the top of thread peak is not tall enough from the valley of the thread)
What do you think based on your experience?


I also just found this picture of the 796 axle dimension, so I think your 821 have longer spacing between the forks than the older 796....
View attachment 2275

Being that they are a different thread pitch you will likely have some of the original thread show through on the new threads. The main issue could be the wall thickness of the male part of the nut but due to its unique way of being clamped inside the lower fork it would only compress the nut onto the axle threads. There is only like 48ish ft lb of torque need for the nut on the axle. If the wall thickness is thick enough to achieve that then you will be good to go. Will it be a steel, aluminum or titanium axle and nut? Titanium is hard to work with but would hold a rethread very nicely as well as the 48ftlb. Steel would hold well too. Aluminum nut is where it will get sketchie. On all of these you will have fully formed threads but you will have some missing areas where the peaks of the old threads were cut and transfer into the new thread even though they are different diameter m24 vs m25. I would be comfortable using steel and titanium. I would want to physically see the end result before using an aluminum rethread.

 

[Araitim]

You must be sure you run that tap into the nut strait. Easy tip (if you don't have access to a lathe)put the nut in a socket and ace it in a vise on a drill press table(if you don't have a vise set the socket flat on its back and hold it with chanel locks or vise grips). Put the tap in the chuck of the drill press and start running it down by hand(having a second set of helping hands will help). Turning the chuck by hand will be difficult and you might need to get creative but it's important that the thread path is strait and not crooked.

 

[BMW Alpina]

Being that they are a different thread pitch you will likely have some of the original thread show through on the new threads. The main issue could be the wall thickness of the male part of the nut but due to its unique way of being clamped inside the lower fork it would only compress the nut onto the axle threads. There is only like 48ish ft lb of torque need for the nut on the axle. If the wall thickness is thick enough to achieve that then you will be good to go. Will it be a steel, aluminum or titanium axle and nut? Titanium is hard to work with but would hold a rethread very nicely as well as the 48ftlb. Steel would hold well too. Aluminum nut is where it will get sketchie. On all of these you will have fully formed threads but you will have some missing areas where the peaks of the old threads were cut and transfer into the new thread even though they are different diameter m24 vs m25. I would be comfortable using steel and titanium. I would want to physically see the end result before using an aluminum rethread.

You must be sure you run that tap into the nut strait. Easy tip (if you don't have access to a lathe)put the nut in a socket and ace it in a vise on a drill press table(if you don't have a vise set the socket flat on its back and hold it with chanel locks or vise grips). Put the tap in the chuck of the drill press and start running it down by hand(having a second set of helping hands will help). Turning the chuck by hand will be difficult and you might need to get creative but it's important that the thread path is strait and not crooked.

Hi Araitim,
Yes, this is another concern of mine, eventhough I have a vise, but well, it is not a lathe...

Thanks again for the very detailed explanation Araitim, also....I think they are aluminum... hmmm,
yes, I better not cut corner and just custom machined a new one...

 

[BMW Alpina]

Good afternoon Araitim,

I imagine if I want to try making my own axle, I will need a lathe. Will this lathe be able to make an axle that is 272.5mm? :
Eastwood Benchtop Mini Metal Lathe - 7" x 12"

Also, will it be able to make the center of the axle hollow by drilling using this Lathe?
Sorry for the silly questions since I never use a Lathe and haven't done much research about Lathe.

I noticed the price of this lathe is not that expensive and buying a custom axle might already 2/3 of the price of this lathe, so might as well buy my own lathe to learn from it but I want to make sure that it will be able to perform the task needed to make an axle

Thanks

 

[Araitim]

Good afternoon Araitim,

I imagine if I want to try making my own axle, I will need a lathe. Will this lathe be able to make an axle that is 272.5mm? :
Eastwood Benchtop Mini Metal Lathe - 7" x 12"

Also, will it be able to make the center of the axle hollow by drilling using this Lathe?
Sorry for the silly questions since I never use a Lathe and haven't done much research about Lathe.

I noticed the price of this lathe is not that expensive and buying a custom axle might already 2/3 of the price of this lathe, so might as well buy my own lathe to learn from it but I want to make sure that it will be able to perform the task needed to make an axle

Thanks

This lathe would not be able to make the axle you are needing. I started on the lathe you showed in the link. It is extremely difficult to make good parts with and needs alot of modifications and tweaks to make it perform just 'ok'. Podium racing and Kbike make a titanium front axle for the V4 I think. Working with titanium is very difficult especially for someone starting out(I dont know your machining background). Aluminum is alot easier to work with but then you have to machine threads...that's is extremely difficult. After a few years of messing with threading i......im... I am still horrible at it but I'm getting better lol. You won't be happy with that lathe . You are better off trying to find an old used one on Craigslist or FB market places. Often times machine shops that take 'walk in' work and will make one off parts for alot less than you might be thinking. You need your exact dimensions though. The red one is almost the same as the one you linked. It has had many many modifications just to keep it usable. The other I love. I have only had the blue one for a couple years, it's a gunsmithing lathe. I have had the red one for like 8 years. Please excuse the messy garage it is extremely difficult for me to keep it clean. I hate cleaning up after myself. LOL

 

[BMW Alpina]

This lathe would not be able to make the axle you are needing. I started on the lathe you showed in the link. It is extremely difficult to make good parts with and needs alot of modifications and tweaks to make it perform just 'ok'. Podium racing and Kbike make a titanium front axle for the V4 I think. Working with titanium is very difficult especially for someone starting out(I dont know your machining background). Aluminum is alot easier to work with but then you have to machine threads...that's is extremely difficult. After a few years of messing with threading i......im... I am still horrible at it but I'm getting better lol. You won't be happy with that lathe . You are better off trying to find an old used one on Craigslist or FB market places. Often times machine shops that take 'walk in' work and will make one off parts for alot less than you might be thinking. You need your exact dimensions though. The red one is almost the same as the one you linked. It has had many many modifications just to keep it usable. The other I love. I have only had the blue one for a couple years, it's a gunsmithing lathe. I have had the red one for like 8 years. Please excuse the messy garage it is extremely difficult for me to keep it clean. I hate cleaning up after myself. LOLView attachment 2309View attachment 2308

Thanks so much for the advise Araitim, my current house does not have extra room to accommodate larger lathe like your blue lathe, so I guess my wife is right because she keep telling me I need to stop spending more money on my bike and start finding her a larger house
Back to axle, I contacted K-Bike yesterday and haven't heard back from them. I haven't contacted Podium Racing yet, but plan to contact Podium Racing if AELLA refuse to produce their Chromoly axle in the length that I need.
At this moment, I tend to prefer Chromoly material instead of Titanium, but will settle for Titanium if I can't get Chromoly.

I do have exact dimension of the axle (up to 2 decimal points in mm). As always, Thanks again Araitim

 

[Araitim]

Thanks so much for the advise Araitim, my current house does not have extra room to accommodate larger lathe like your blue lathe, so I guess my wife is right because she keep telling me I need to stop spending more money on my bike and start finding her a larger house
Back to axle, I contacted K-Bike yesterday and haven't heard back from them. I haven't contacted Podium Racing yet, but plan to contact Podium Racing if AELLA refuse to produce their Chromoly axle in the length that I need.
At this moment, I tend to prefer Chromoly material instead of Titanium, but will settle for Titanium if I can't get Chromoly.

I do have exact dimension of the axle (up to 2 decimal points in mm). As always, Thanks again Araitim

I just stumbled upon another company that makes axles for the V4. Apex racing makes a aluminum one and evotech makes a steel one from what I see. Ducati Panigale V4 V2 Aluminium (Ergal) Racing Front Axle

Front wheel axle made of steel and sliders kit for Ducati Panigale

Racing front fork axle- perfectly replaceable with the original axle- New axle stronger than the original and therefore less inclined to bend in case of crashes- Right slider made of plastic material aiming to guarantee the best axle protection in case of fall. The special plastic material we...

www.evotech-rc.com

 

[BMW Alpina]

I just stumbled upon another company that makes axles for the V4. Apex racing makes a aluminum one and evotech makes a steel one from what I see. Ducati Panigale V4 V2 Aluminium (Ergal) Racing Front Axle

Front wheel axle made of steel and sliders kit for Ducati Panigale

Racing front fork axle- perfectly replaceable with the original axle- New axle stronger than the original and therefore less inclined to bend in case of crashes- Right slider made of plastic material aiming to guarantee the best axle protection in case of fall. The special plastic material we...

www.evotech-rc.com

Thanks so much Araitim, but I don't want an aluminum axle, because that is high loading part and I worry aluminum could fatigue...
Regarding Evotech-RC, I contacted them in the past for custom lower triple clamp, but they do not do custom order, also AELLA just told me they also do not do custom order.
Podium Racing is wiling to perform custom order but need minimum quantity of 20 units.

I think my solution will be either go to machine shop myself with my own drawing, or use a different Ducati axle and just machined a slightly longer nut with sleeve built into the nut. (Similar to 821 nuts but with even longer sleeve).

 

[craig bush]

Araitim,

mad respect to your skill and ingenuity brother - very impressive!

I’ll look forward to updates as the bike evolves.


Craig

 

[Araitim]

New parts!
From the beginning of my Hyper ownership I was not a fan of the SP chicken feet marchesini wheels. My bike isn't an SP but I intended on swapping out wheels to forged wheels when I came across a deal. Well, that deal popped up on the design I really wanted. The deal included Ducabike left and right nuts. The coolest part about these wheels is that they are 4.6lbs lighter than my old cast wheels. They also match one of my dry clutch covers. Noone makes a chicken foot shape dry clutch cover, probably because the bike never came with a dry clutch. I had to weigh them a different way with 3 different scales to be sure my measurements were correct. The OEM cast wheel was too heavy to register on small scale. Used the small scale I usually weight small stuff on,used a hanging digital fish scale and used the bathroom scale minus my weight. The measurements were almost exactly the same each time. These measurements were taken with the valve stems in. What is very interesting to me is that OZ Piega forged wheels advertise their rear 5.5in wheel @ 8.35lbs. Searching weight of other aftermarket wheels in the same dimensions(small axle, 17x5.5), this wheel is on par with the weight of most aftermarket forged options. The seller wasn't sure on specific info for this wheel which makes me question, did the 1100s/evo SP come from the factory with such a light wheel or did this come off of something else(oem or aftermarket) A couple other unexpected cool things about the Marchesini. It has some kind of coating , I don't think it's painted or powder coated . It feels stronger, more like a hard anodizing. It's more of a matt finish which matches the matt sheen of the bike and the area between the tire bead landings, the area that the bead rests on while you are changing the tire has a smaller radius. Might not seem like a big deal but this is extremely helpful if you do tire changes yourself using tire changing hand tools. That was a fantastic unexpected surprise.
OEM cast wheel - 12.2lb
Marchesini forged wheel - 7.56lb

Something to note that I'm sure won't make much difference due to where the weight is, the Ducabike wheel nuts are half the weight of the OEM.
OEM right - 136g/.298lb
Ducabike right - 70g/.154lb


Lying in wait is a Smart Moto AIS valve removal kit, plates and module.

I was able to take it for a spin but it was 30°f so I wasn't able to really push it. Now we are covered in snow. When the roads dry I will put some more miles on it and see what happens. Now to try and sell my OEM cast wheel to try and find a 48tooth clutch basket.

 

[HKMP7]

No thanks to the snow lol

 

[Araitim]

No thanks to the snow lol

It definitely stops alot of fun for us but the summers are great in Michigan. My wife HATES the snow. LOL

 

[BMW Alpina]

Congratulations to @Araitim for being selected as the MARCH Bike of the month, and the FIRST Hypermotard to be featured as Bike of the month :

Link below:
DUCATI modified Forum

 

[HKMP7]

Heck yeah it looks awesome.

 

[Araitim]

Thank you guys. I have never had anything highlighted before. I truly appreciate this . Thank you

 

[Araitim]

Some new things have happened. Time to share.
So when I originally did my dry clutch conversion I pieced together a clutch nut with the intentions of actually making one that has many features as opposed to the pieces together set up I mounted to get me by. I'm very happy to share my creation.
It's made of heat treated cold rolled steel, has 5 very crucial dimensions to make it all work including an internal bearing landing, 3 seals and a snap ring landing. It's all together now and performing fantastically. The center button on the clutch pressure plate is dead strait with zero jumping around.
I'm very pleased with the outcome. The last pic is my 'get me by' set up. Also, don't mind the clutch basket I'm about to replace it .

 

[Araitim]

Next up, something I have been waiting on for a very long time. Ordered this over a month ago after alot of research and some help from BMW Alpine, Mupo Ab1 EVO set for my weight. I never owned an aftermarket shock before. I would always focus on the front and forget about the rear but now I have learned the rear is just as important.
The oem was a basic Sachs with preload and compression settings. The Mupo has preload, highspeed compression, low speed compression, rebound and overall length adjustability. The old one weighed in at 5.898lbs the Mupo 5.40lbs. No more jolting as I go over expansion joints and other road imperfections, no more/less butt clenching mid turn jumping n skipping.



I also stumbled across this small shop in Canada called Forsaken Motorsports that used to make dry cluch covers. I messaged them to see if they ever intend on making them again and he mentioned that he still has one, his back up one inscase he slides out at the track. He sold it to me. It is a very nice solid piece and a unique design. I'm a huge fan of small shops that make great parts.
They seem to focus on adjustable triple trees now but usually with small shops they will make whatever the masses are interested in. (That is water on the cement under my bike, I sprayed the bike off before the pics due to the bathroom remodel we are in andhow dust covered it was)

 

[BMW Alpina]

Wow Araitim,
I really admire your machining skills !!! Someday, I will try to learn how to do machining too, but in the meantime, just WOW!!! You even do your own heat treatment, all the proper thing.
And that clutch nut had so many intricate functioning details on it. Just amazing


I am also amaze on how good the technical customization service of Mupo, I never knew they will provide the report (like a birth certificate) when you buy their suspension. No wonder they have a lot of loyal customers.
The Forsaken clutch cover is also very very nice looking with those drilled ventilation holes, and it looks super strong, but the most important part (at least if it was me) is that you were able to purchase the only 1 remaining in the world