22 Panigale V4 clutch slipping

[ferociious]

Hey everyone,

I tried my hand at installing the clear clutch cover and the pressure plate and pressure ring and messed up. Upon first install (never turned the bike on) my clutch lever wouldnt engage ( was frozen in place, couldnt pull on it even tho i tried to).
It was because i didnt have thre pressure plate pushed in all the way, noobie mistake. I took it apart, and noticed one of the metal plates was slightly bent.

I took a mallet and straightened it out (i didnt have any spare metal plates, and i am going to buy a new clutch kit).I did a fairly good job of straightening it out, and put it in the bike and test drove it thinking maybe it would be a non issue.

Bike has less power, feels as if the clutch is slipping. Throttle input isnt as precise or crisp.

I had purchased the CNC clear clutch kit, with the cnc racing pressure plate and ring by the way. Not sure if anyone here has experienec with that one over the ducabike one.

Now that i have to buy new clutch plates and friction plates, i am not going to bother installing it myself and will eat the hefty $450 fee to get it installed by my dealer. Does anyone know where to source the OEM plates? Would appreciate a part number. I emailed ducatiomaha so waiting for them to get back to me.


Also, I was considering buying the STM wet slipper clutch instead?

Anyone have any experience with STM/ EVR *WET* slipper clutches? Those two are the ones i am eyeing. I would prefer to stay with a wet clutch instead of dry. I have linked both below.

Yeah i messed up, i regret trying it myself, i beat myself up over it. I would appreciate any advice.

STM Italy

STM

www.stmitaly.com

EVR Ducati Wet Slipper Clutch: Panigale V4/S

EVR Ducati Wet Slipper Clutch: Panigale V4/S from Motowheels.com

motowheels.com

 

[topolino]

When installing the CNC kit, did you press the bearing into the new pressure plate fully home? Did you also apply equal torque to the spring plate bolts? Did you re-use the stock springs? If the clutch is slipping it sounds as if the pressure plate is not actuating on the disc pack correctly. This can be due to a couple of reasons but the first port of call would be to check the spring plate and the torque values you used for each of the retaining bolts. You might also want to check the actuation of the rod itself or that it is not bent or damaged in any way which would prevent it from allowing the pressure plate to actuate on the pack fully and allow the clutch to slip, when you release the lever. The rod is easy to replace if damaged but will require you to remove the slave cylinder to withdraw it. Before you take it to the dealer you might want to try a local machine shop who have access to a hydraulic press and you could (as a temporary measure) ask them to use some flat steel plates (sandwiched over your metal clutch plate) and have them press it flat, they should also be able to check it for any run-out, to see if it's true. Any slight curvature in the plates will affect your clutch, no matter what you do, but if you are sure it is just the one plate that has been damaged (I am assuming you have checked the whole pack) then this might be a cheaper option, than replacing the entire assembly. I am also assuming the clutch pack itself is not worn over time.

 

[ferociious]

When installing the CNC kit, did you press the bearing into the new pressure plate fully home? Did you also apply equal torque to the spring plate bolts? Did you re-use the stock springs? If the clutch is slipping it sounds as if the pressure plate is not actuating on the disc pack correctly. This can be due to a couple of reasons but the first port of call would be to check the spring plate and the torque values you used for each of the retaining bolts. You might also want to check the actuation of the rod itself or that it is not bent or damaged in any way which would prevent it from allowing the pressure plate to actuate on the pack fully and allow the clutch to slip, when you release the lever. The rod is easy to replace if damaged but will require you to remove the slave cylinder to withdraw it. Before you take it to the dealer you might want to try a local machine shop who have access to a hydraulic press and you could (as a temporary measure) ask them to use some flat steel plates (sandwiched over your metal clutch plate) and have them press it flat, they should also be able to check it for any run-out, to see if it's true. Any slight curvature in the plates will affect your clutch, no matter what you do, but if you are sure it is just the one plate that has been damaged (I am assuming you have checked the whole pack) then this might be a cheaper option, than replacing the entire assembly. I am also assuming the clutch pack itself is not worn over time.

The cnc kit came with its own bearing so i just had to transfer the clutch control pin over. I also reused the springs, and applied 10nm cross pattern torque to the 3 bolts.

Thats a good tip, to check the long rod. When i pulled out the orginal clutch pressure plate, the rod came out with it slightly, i had to push it back in place firmly. Could that be an issue?

I found the original clutch kit part number 19020361D for about $475 at a nearby dealership. Before i spend money on buying that i'd like to narrow down possible culprits.
Should i buy a new rod to be on the safe side? New springs?

Ive attached the clutch blown out with all the parts broken down so it should be easy for me to order them.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[topolino]

The cnc kit came with its own bearing so i just had to transfer the clutch control pin over. I also reused the springs, and applied 10nm cross pattern torque to the 3 bolts.

Thats a good tip, to check the long rod. When i pulled out the orginal clutch pressure plate, the rod came out with it slightly, i had to push it back in place firmly. Could that be an issue?

I found the original clutch kit part number 19020361D for about $475 at a nearby dealership. Before i spend money on buying that i'd like to narrow down possible culprits.
Should i buy a new rod to be on the safe side? New springs?

Ive attached the clutch blown out with all the parts broken down so it should be easy for me to order them.

Thanks for the reply.

You only need to change the rod if it was bent perhaps as a result of you actuating the clutch whilst the pressure plate was not seated correctly. Somehow I doubt it but might be worth you removing it to check, just to be sure. Also check part number (18) according to your diagram is fully seated into the bearing, If not it will not allow the pressure plate to compress the clutch pack properly. You will notice that this part (18) has a shoulder on it, this must sit flush with the rear bearing surface/race in the pressure plate. You won't need new springs unless yours are particularly worn.